6 alternatives to the Swatch x Blancpain Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms
Zach BlassThe year 2023 marked a few things within the world of watches. It was the 70th anniversary celebration year of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, and it also marked the beginning of peak MoonSwatch fatigue. This is why, perhaps, the arrival of the Swatch x Blancpain Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms in September of that year was a new hot collaboration arriving on the scene just in time. Some felt it was too late, that the idea of an in-Swatch-group collab had lost its steam and momentum – or, simply riding the ragged coattails of the MoonSwatch momentum. However, ultimately, the numbers don’t lie, and with each article or social post surrounding the collaboration, it was clear that Swatch x Blancpain there was plenty of interest. That being said, interest and purchase intent are two different things, so whether the collaboration is not your cup of tea or your favoured configuration eludes you at retail, I have compiled a list of the best Swatch x Blancpain Fifty Fathoms alternatives that may pique your interest.
Before we dive in, it is important to establish what exactly the Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms offers. Nine variations of the watch have been presented so far, in a wide variety of often bold colour schemes with some more tame aesthetics. All of the watches are forged in Swatch’s Bioceramic, with 90 metres water-resistant cases that measure 42.3mm in diameter, 14.4mm thick, and 48mm lug-to-lug. They are driven by a Sistem 51 automatic movement that is intriguingly completely machine assembled, motif-decorated, and has an impressive endurance of 90 hours.
Spoiler alert: the Swatch x Blancpain Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms interestingly boasts the longest power reserve out of all the watches that will be mentioned, and it is less expensive than all of the watches mentioned below at US$400, but it also has the lowest depth rating.
Lorier Neptune Series IV
Pros: More robust and compact, offered on a stainless steel bracelet, fan-favourite vintage-driven look.
Cons: Shorter power reserve, only one colour option, US$99 more expensive.
Since its inception in 2017, Lorier has been well-received by watch enthusiasts for its higher-quality-for-a-lower-price designs. Remixing familiar aesthetics enough to have a degree of distinction and brand identity, Lorier serves up crowdpleasers with each of its new evolutions and iterations. One of its most well-known designs is the Neptune, currently offered in its Series IV generation.
A screw-down-crown-secured 200 metres water-resistant stainless steel watch, it comfortably clocks in at 39mm in diameter, 10.3mm thick (excluding its 2.4mm domed Hesalite crystal), and 46mm lug-to-lug. Its acrylic bezel has a bakelite aesthetic that introduces a vintage feel, and, like the three central hands and hour indices, utilises SuperLuminova for its timing scale. Inside, it is driven by a cost-effective 42-hour automatic Miyota 90S5 movement. This is certainly the value-driven alternative to the Swatch x Blancpain Fifty Fathoms for those who prefer a more vintage-driven dive watch staple aesthetic and a full stainless steel build. Price: US$499
Timex Deepwater Reef 200 Titanium Automatic 41mm Synthetic Rubber Strap Watch
Pros: Slimmer case, introduces grade 2 titanium at a lower price, over 2x more water-resistant.
Cons: Shorter power reserve, could be construed as homage-y, US$149 more expensive.
Timex has been levelling up its offering in recent years, introducing more design variety and more mechanical watches into its catalogue. It is also finding ways to do more interesting watches without climbing into higher price brackets. One such example is the Deepwater Reef 200 Titanium Automatic 41mm, which notably offers a 200 metres water-resistant case in grade 2 titanium despite being less than US$600. The case is also presented in a comfortable modern size, measuring 41mm in diameter and 13mm thick.
Good or bad, depending on your preference, the Deepwater continues the perceivable Timex trend of leveraging and tributing design elements popularised by other brands. In this instance, I do not think it is a far stretch to say its designer blended elements of a Rolex Submariner and Seiko 62MAS diver to try and deliver some more affordable fan service.
The squared-off lugs certainly carry a Seiko diver flavour to them, and the lume plot shape, bezel font, and sapphire crystal with a cyclops-magnified date undoubtedly have a Submariner-esque feel, but that does not necessarily detract from the admirable-for-the-price 200-metre water-resistant titanium case. I also particularly enjoy the fully lumed bezel scale, and, further driving home the value proposition, the fact that it is powered by an automatic Miyota 8215 movement with 42 hours of power reserve when Timex could have easily opted for some off-the-shelf quartz (no quartz snobbery intended). Price: US$549
Seiko Prospex SRPL53 PADI Special Edition
Pros: Fully in-house, “looking up beneath the ocean” gradient dial, over 2x more water-resistant.
Cons: Shorter power reserve, potentially lengthy lug-to-lug, US$220 more expensive.
You can almost guarantee a Seiko in any and every alternatives buying guide, a testament to the depth of its manufacturing prowess, price-points, and catalogue diversity – though we should not discount Seiko as always the bridesmaid, never the bride. The Seiko Prospex SRPL53 surely does not need the Swatch x Blancpain Fifty Fathoms as a catalyst to appear on your radar, the latest PADI Special Edition to debut from the brand.
Whereas the Lorier and Timex have safer, tamer colour expressions, the SRPL53 brings a more playful, artistic expression of colour. Similar to how the Swatch X Blancpain looks to the ocean for inspiration, the SRPL53’s dial has been stamped and coloured to create the effect of looking up at the blue/green surface of the ocean from the depths of the water below. The wavy pattern simulates the ripples of the water, while the gradient introduces further depth and dimension. It also works out for dial nitpickers that the gradient allows the white-on-black date disc to seamlessly blend in – though, controversially placed at the 4:30 position.
The 200-metre water-resistant stainless steel case measures 41.7mm in diameter, 12.3mm thick, and 49.5mm lug-to-lug. This nets a case that is a similar diameter to the Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms and a case noticeably thinner, but also a case that will have a larger presence on the wrist due to its lug-to-lug. The fact that Seiko is delivering a steel watch on a steel bracelet with an in-house movement of its own for only US$220 more is quite a flex though. Price: US$620
Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze Brown
Pros: Introduces bronze, more robust sapphire insert bezel, over 2x more water-resistant.
Cons: Shorter power reserve, case patination-prone (if not desired), ~ US$318.75 more expensive.
There are a number of Baltic Aquascaphe configurations to explore, as it has been a number of years since its first introduction. My personal favourite is the tropically-styled Bronze Brown. Vintage lovers will likely adore its smoky brown dial, and patination lovers will appreciate the journey and evolution of the bronze case’s appearance as it worn over time. This sort of character is appealing to some, while not so much for others. So, I leave it up to you of course.
The 200-metre water-resistant and screw-down-crown-secured case measures a Goldilocks-proportioned 39mm in diameter, 13mm thick, including its double-domed sapphire crystal, and 47mm lug-to-lug across the wrist. Its dial is framed by a robust sapphire insert timing bezel that will not scratch, and inside ticking away is a trusted 42-hour automatic Miyota 9039 calibre. Price: ~ US$718.75
Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Auto
Pros: Multiple colour configurations, a better-regulated 80-hour automatic movement, 20mm lug-width strap monster.
Cons: 4:30 date (if it offends), only 10 metres more water-resistant (100m), US$445 more expensive.
The first name-brand Swiss watchmaker of the list, the Swatch Group’s Hamilton, is not going to let Swatch own the more affordable and dive-inspired category. The Khaki Navy Scuba Auto has nearly double the power reserve offered by all the Miyota and Seiko-driven propositions we have run through so far, its H-10 automatic movement offering 80 hours of power reserve and a superior pledged accuracy rating of within 15 seconds per day compared to the broader ranges listed for Seiko/Miyota. That being said, it is worth calling out that the Sistem 51 is said to run within 7 seconds per day and is surprisingly the most accurate movement out of any watch on this list (at least according to pledged regulations).
The Khaki Navy Scuba Auto has a stainless steel case that is 40mm in diameter and 12.95mm thick, but it notably only has a depth rating of 100 metres compared to the 200 metres offered up until now. So, the tradeoff you have to tackle is a more accurate movement or a more water-resistant case. Aside from that factor, the Khaki Navy Scuba does come in multiple colour configurations and has bracelet options as well. Also, it has a 20mm lug-width so you can play strap monster to your heart’s delight. Price: US$845
Bulova MIL-SHIPS-W-2181
Pros: Historical provenance, secure press-down bezel rotation system, over 2x more water-resistant.
Cons: Shorter power reserve, aftermarket-strap-limiting 16mm lug-width, US$450 more expensive.
For many, a Swatch x Blancpain Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms is a means to bring themselves a step closer to the Fifty Fathoms. Looking at the Bulova MIL-SHIPS, some might think it is Bulova borrowing heavily from the Fifty Fathoms design, but this is absolutely not the case. Bulova, like Blancpain, was one of a select group of brands vying for its watch to be chosen by the United States Navy as its official diver’s watch in the early ’50s. This meant that multiple brands were all putting forth designs that needed to hit certain design specs, resulting in various parallels. The Navy ultimately selected the Fifty Fathoms, and Bulova’s prototype was never introduced commercially. So, when the MIL-SHIPS above that was based on Bulova’s prototype was introduced in 2021, it was a major deal for dive watch fanatics well-versed and invested in the lore.
It is a 200-metre water-resistant stainless steel watch that measures 41mm in diameter, 14.5mm thick, and 50mm lug-to-lug. Its matte black dial leans into vintage-appeal with lume plots executed with simulated ageing (a.k.a faux-tina), and it has a functioning moisture indicator on the dial at the 6 o’clock position that can reveal to the wearer if moisture has entered the case. Inside, a 42-hour automatic Miyota 8210 ticks away. Its smaller lug width will prevent you from having broader strap exploration, but for those who want a strong historical tribute that happens to offer an aesthetic similar to the original 1953 Fifty Fathoms, this is your best bet if you have the budget to spend over twice as much money as the Swatch x Blancpain. That being said US$950 is far, far less expensive than what a vintage ’50s Fifty Fathoms would set you back.
Price: US$950