8 of the best alternatives to the Tudor Black Bay, because you can always get better value

Buffy Acacia

The Tudor Black Bay collection has got to be one of the most popular series of retro-styled watches ever. Considering the wealth of ‘50s and ‘60s designs Tudor has to pull from, plus its historic connection to Rolex, all of the Black Bay models have completely surpassed their original designation as affordable alternatives to a Submariner. That said, they’ve gone up in price themselves. Whether you’re trying to save some money – or you just want something that isn’t the obvious choice – here are some alternatives to the Tudor Black Bay catalogue including its chronograph and GMT variations.

Timex Harborside Coast

Getting in at the lower end of watchmaking is always a bit tricky because quality can vary so much between manufacturers and price points. That’s why trusted brand names are important because even if something does go wrong, you’ll at least have a decent warranty as backup. The Timex Harborside Coast is practically an homage to a vintage Rolex Submariner, down to the Mercedes-style hour hand, but the vivid crimson bezel and the gilt details bear a striking similarity to the old Tudor Heritage Black Bay ref. 7922R, or the current M7941A1A0RU-0001. The 43mm stainless steel case may be less refined than the Tudor equivalent, but its 100 metres of water resistance, steel bracelet, and reliable quartz movement do make it a solid tool watch. It’s even got a date magnifier on the mineral glass crystal. Price: US$119

Seiko 5 Sports SRPE53

The bezel-less look of the Tudor Black Bay 41 can be a bit of an acquired taste, but if you have acquired it, then the Seiko 5 Sports catalogue has got you covered. The case and dial of this ref. SRPE53 has been directly inspired by the now-discontinued Seiko SKX diver, but unlike other “5KX” models, the rotating bezel has been changed to a solid steel one. It offers a much more casual, and even slightly dressy take on the fan-favourite without resorting to risky DIY mods. The 40mm diameter fits well on all kinds of wrists thanks to the short 44.6mm lug-to-lug length, and the 11.5mm thickness isn’t bad at all for an automatic watch with a swimmable 100 metres of water resistance. The calibre 4R36 is visible through a Hardlex caseback and provides 41 hours of power reserve beating at 21,600vph. Price: US$295

Lorier Neptune

Now in its fourth iteration, the Lorier Neptune was designed with the late 1950s in mind, right down to the gilt details, oversized crown, and tall domed crystal. The lumed bezel looks like Bakelite, but you don’t have to worry about it cracking as it’s actually a piece of acrylic, which should still give it plenty of character as it ages. Seeing as Lorier is a microbrand, the Neptune has been honed over its generations to suit fan preferences as closely as possible, which is one of the most appealing aspects of going micro. Powered by a Miyota 9000-series movement, you have a date or no-date option, housed in a 39mm steel case that’s water-resistant to 200 metres. Price: US$499

Christopher Ward C65 Aquitaine GMT

The Black Bay 58 GMT is almost more of a fan favourite than the BB58 itself, and finding alternatives isn’t easy without resorting to a straight-up homage. The C65 Aquitaine GMT from Christopher Ward is objectively gorgeous with its creamy lume and glossy ceramic bezel that swims in vintage charm. The Sellita SW330-2 is a fantastic movement for a watch at this price point, its slenderness allowing this 200m dive watch with a GMT complication to be just 12.7mm thick. It also wears well due to its 46.68mm lug-to-lug length, taming the 42mm diameter. The pop of red on the GMT hand is the perfect final touch, linking back to the red of the GMT printing. Price: US$1,610

Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Singer Inter.Bezel

The Tudor Black Bay Chrono has an incredibly specific look that most brands don’t touch. A highly sporty racing chronograph that’s also a dive watch, but drenched in vintage flavour? It’s a bit oddball, which makes finding a clear alternative tricky. However, the Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Singer Inter.Bezel comes close. The dial is based on an archival Nivada Grenchen reference produced by Singer (who also made the now-famous “exotic” or “Paul Newman” Rolex Daytona dials back in the day) as you can see from the lollipop indices on the twin-register subdials. The panda dial hones in on that ‘60s racing look, and the aluminium bezel provides fantastic contrast. Also, this model comes with Nivada Grenchen’s new tool-free interchangeable bezel system and five complimentary bezels. It’s 100m water resistant and powered by the Landeron 70 automatic chronograph movement. Price: US$1,975, soon to be available from the Time+Tide Shop

Rado Captain Cook 37mm

The Tudor Black Bay 54 was a welcome release for those with smaller wrists, but what about its alternatives? A reissue of a real vintage watch, the Rado Captain Cook in its 37mm form is one of the best options in heritage, looks, and value. Originally released in 1962, only around 8,000 models were produced in a 35.5mm case before it was discontinued in 1968 and faded into obscurity. The first reissue appeared in 2017, and it has since become Rado’s flagship dive watch with a huge variety of designs. You can still find some of those initial reissues called the Rado HyperChrome Captain Cook with a beautiful brown sunburst dial: otherwise, newer 37mm models are available in green, blue, white, and various diamond-index models. You also get the benefit of an 80-hour movement and that gorgeous sloped ceramic bezel. Price: US$2,250

Oris Divers Date

The Oris Divers Sixty-Five has been one of the most popular vintage style divers for good reason, but it has recently been given a facelift as the Oris Divers Date. Upping the water resistance from 100m to 200m finally earns the Divers name in more than just aesthetic, even though the looks have always perfectly captured the spirit of a 1960s skin diver. Other recent changes include a scratch-resistant ceramic bezel, a 39mm case diameter to suit the current trends, and a sapphire caseback to show off the Sellita SW200-1 with its customised and customary red Oris winding rotor. 41 hours of power resistance with a smooth 4Hz beat rate make for a great daily wearer, and the timeless style is a little more sophisticated and versatile than the Tudor Black Bay. Price: US$2,700

T+T Timeless Pick: Citizen Promaster “Fujitsubo”

If your interest in the Tudor Black Bay stems from a desire for a capable, mechanical tool watch, Citizen could fill that void. There are many affordable Citizen Promaster watches to choose from, but the limited edition Citizen Promaster “Fujitsubo” also hits upon a brilliant vintage-inspired aesthetic with the specifications necessary to be a no-nonsense dive watch. It has 200 metres of water resistance, a detailed elapsed-time bezel with a luminous pip, and fulfils all of the ISO requirements to have “Diver’s” printed on the dial. The sunburst blue dial is captivating, as is the blue ring that surrounds the bezel insert, providing a point of difference from most divers. The automatic calibre 8204 provides a 40-hour power reserve ticking at 21,600vph, along with a day/date display. This reference was a limited edition for the 35th anniversary of the Promaster range and retailed for US$1,195, but there are still some discounted units floating around through third-party retailers.