7 of the best marquetry dials showing off the incredible intricacies of this art
Borna BošnjakIf you want an example of how deep of a niche you can get into, being into watches is the perfect avenue to get there. Though rising in popularity over the last few years, a Rolex Submariner or Patek Philippe Nautilus barely skim the surface of all the different artisanal crafts watchmaking has to offer. For this buying guide, we’ll hyper-focus on one of those, exploring the best marquetry dial watches on the market. What is marquetry? This is a dial decorating technique that involves laying intricate pieces of natural materials into mosaics, be it wood, feathers, leather etc. The result is often an extremely limited run of watches, as the dials are often comprised of hundreds of tiny elements and different materials. If you thought guillochage was difficult…
Isotope Mercury Marquetry
Like many things that take a lot of skill and time, and especially so in the world of watches, marquetry doesn’t come cheap. But there are brands out there that try and make this form of art as accessible as possible, and Isotope is at the forefront. Working with Bernardo d’Orey, a Paris-based artisan, the British brand is able to offer made-to-order marquetry dials, each with a unique design, for a staggering price point. Top that off with a decent hand-winding movement in the Peseux 7001 powering a beautiful set of hands, and you’ve got yourself a pretty great X-factor piece without splashing that much cash – especially when put into context of what’s to come. Price: starting from £4,000
XRby Rose Saneuil The Quetzal
XRby is not a household name, but The Quetzal is a pretty unique offering at a surprisingly affordable price point for what’s on offer. The Schwarz Etienne micro-rotor is quite minimally decorated (though the marquetry on the oscillating weight is pretty cool), but the sapphire case and quetzal dial motif are something else. There are 16 total materials and 214 individual elements that make up the dial, including birdseye maple, sycamore, hornbeam, and leather. Price: CHF 19,800 (~US$23,000)
Bulgari Divas’ Dream Peacock Dischi
Unlike the XRby, which has a bird-inspired dial without any actual feather material, the Divas’ Dream Peacock Dischi is less obvious about its avian muse but actually uses peacock feathers to make up the marquetry pattern. The two discs represent hours and minutes indicated by the blue gemstones set into the case, which separate the azure blue and emerald green feathers. I’m not sure whether the round-cut diamond replacing the “eye” of a peacock’s feather was intentional, but it is a nice stylistic choice. Price: US$69,000
Ulysse Nardin Marine Blast Free Wheel Marquetry
Ulysse Nardin perhaps isn’t as well-known for its use of silicon as it should be, seeing as it was the first brand to introduce it into a watch movement with the 2001 Freak. To celebrate this achievement, Ulysse Nardin has used silicon in its dials too, the latest being this Blast Free Wheel model. The effect is achieved using 103 slivers of silicon material that are matte or polished, measuring in at just 0.3mm or 0.35mm, respectively. This also makes the Blast Free Wheel Marquetry slightly different from most marquetry-dial watches, as much of the calibre in its flying configuration is actually front-and-centre, with the reflective dial taking a step back to let the UN-176 flying tourbillon movement shine. Price: US$137,200
Patek Philippe ref. 5089G-129 Morning on a Beach
It’s always an exciting time when Patek Philippe presents its novelties at the first big watch fair of the year. For 2024, much of the effort was focused on the Rare Handcrafts collection that displayed scenes executed in the most difficult methods, including cloisonné enamelling, miniature painting, and, of course, marquetry. I picked the “Morning on a Beach” as to me, it’s the last thing I’d expected depicted on a Patek, but done in the most Patek way possible, with intricate wood marquetry depicting the lonely scene. Price: POA
Louis Vuitton Escale Cabinet of Wonders Snake’s Jungle
With an incredible level of investment into its watchmaking division over the last decade, Louis Vuitton has slowly begun to earn its keep in this highly traditional industry. But one thing their La Fabrique du Temps workshop has excelled ever since being taken over by LV is the haute horlogerie stuff, now expanding this into all sorts of métiers d’art. A particularly notable examples of this endeavour is the Escale Cabinet of Wonders trio (though my personal favourite is still the Koi’s Garden), where the Snake’s Jungle variant combines intricate marquetry and enamelling. It’s not an ultra-complicated watch, but the dial has more than enough going for it, with the many layers of wood, straw, and parchment serving as a backdrop to the three-dimensional snake and leaves. Though they’re quite different, it’s yet another example of Rose Saneuil’s brilliant work. Price: POA
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Tribute to Art Deco Style
If we’re talking about the most special marquetry dials, I can’t not mention Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers Tribute to Art Deco Style. The inspiration is obvious, with the crown-like protrusions surrounding the tourbillon aperture, almost as if towering over the entrance of a New York heritage building. Comprised of tinted pear and tulip wood, they’re rimmed in rose gold to match the case. This piece is more about the whole experience – including the hand-engraving and diamond markers – making it unique, which it is. Price: POA