The Seiko Presage Classic Series Urushi dial pays homage to the brand’s origins
Russell SheldrakeWe spend far too long in this job talking about the history and heritage of the Swiss watchmaking industry, so much so that we can sometimes forget that on the other side of the world, in Japan, they too have been making some incredible watches for a very long time. The new Seiko Presage Classic Series Urushi SBP499 draws direct inspiration from the very first pocket watch Seiko made in 1895, and it does so using a dial-making technique that dates back thousands of years. Let’s dig into exactly how this watch manages to achieve all of that in what, at first glance, appears to be a relatively simple package.
The dial
The dial is the main attraction here, with its deep black shine and delicate gold printing; there is a lot to unpack. First of all, let’s look at the technique used to create this incredibly glossy dial. This effect is created by urushi lacquer, an ancient craft that uses the sap from the lacquer tree, Toxicodendron vernicifluum, which has been grown in Japan for thousands of years. Through multiple layers of lacquer and polishing, it is possible to build up a dial of this quality with a high level of shine and a real depth that should be almost impossible to achieve at this price point. Of course, this is not the first time Seiko (or its premium Credor or Grand Seiko brands) has used urushi lacquer, and it’s one of the many feathers in their dial-making cap that helps them stand out as a brand.
Next, we have the gilt print, which has been stamped onto this dial, and in particular, the elongated Roman numerals. It is this style of Roman numerals that has been directly inspired by the brand’s first pocket watch, known as the Timekeeper, back when the company was called Seikosha. The design of these numerals makes them almost resemble baton markers, as they have elegantly been elongated and compressed. Having these stamped in a matte tone of gold only adds to the allure of this dial. With the train track minute markings and everything else on this dial applied in a uniform tone, there is a sense of minimalism about it that allows the lustre of the dial itself to shine through.
Sweeping across this dial are the centrally mounted hour and minute leaf hands and an extremely fine running seconds hand with a crescent counterweight. In the sub-dial at 6 o’clock is a 24-hour hand that acts as a day-night indicator, letting you know if the main hour hand is reading AM or PM. An elegant complication that does nothing to distract from the simple dial, yet adds a nice extra layer of functionality.
The case
While everything about this watch’s dial screams classical, the proportioning of the case forces it into a more modern category. Measuring 40.2mm across, 12.1mm thick and 48mm from lug-to-lug, this watch falls outside of the vintage style sizing and into proportions many think are ideal for the modern consumer. While we have seen Seiko go smaller in recent times, and they have even gone smaller with the exact same movement, here they decided to let this watch feel a little more modern when on the wrist.
What also helps this watch feel modern is the water resistance rating of 100m, making it far more practical than many other dress watches on the market. The rest of this case feels fairly unremarkable; it has straight lugs that extend a fair way off the case, an open caseback to show off the automatic movement inside, and a decent-sized, easily usable fluted crown. As with pretty much all Seiko designs, nothing feels out of place here, and everything is serving a functional purpose while allowing the dial to be the main attraction.
The movement
Keeping this watch running is Seiko’s automatic 6R5H calibre: an impressive little movement that manages to keep 72 hours of power reserve whilst running a standard and a 24-hour indicator hand. It is a 3Hz variant of Seiko’s long-running 6R line of movements that has proven itself time and time again to be consistent and cost-effective for what you are getting. There is no fancy finishing to speak of, but you do get a view of the brass rotor and the beating heart of this watch through the sapphire caseback.
The strap
Holding this watch together is a simple black calf leather strap with a deployant buckle. What is nice to know about this strap is that the leather used for it was sourced from a tannery that has been certified by the Leather Working Group (LWG) international organisation as sustainable. But while it’s on your wrist, what is really important is how the leather complements the deep black of the dial.
The verdict
There is always a lot to say about a Seiko dial, and when they are combining an ancient Japanese technique with inspiration from the very earliest days of the company, there is even more to talk about. One thing that I have always admired this brand for is making this level of design and craftsmanship available at such an accessible price point. It is also interesting to see that while so much of the industry seems to be shrinking their watches, Seiko is not afraid to stick to the more standard sizing that there is undoubtedly still a market for.
Seiko Presage Classic Series Urushi SPB499 pricing and availability
The Seiko Presage Classic Series Urushi SBP499 is available from all Seiko retailers now. Price: US$1,650, £1,500, A$2,600
| Brand | Seiko |
| Model | Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” Urushi Lacquer Dial |
| Reference | SPB499 |
| Case Dimensions | 40.2mm (D) x 12.1mm (T) x 48mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel, scratch-resistant coating |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Black urushi lacquer |
| Lug Width | 20mm |
| Strap | Black calf leather strap, stainless steel deployant buckle |
| Movement | 6R5H, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 72 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, 24-hour indicator |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | US$1,650 £1,500 A$2,600 |