8 of the best orange dial watches for those who need some vitamin C

Jamie Weiss

Despite being one of the most prominent highlight colours on sporty dials, orange doesn’t make it to the forefront very often. It makes for a phenomenal contrast on black or blue dials, but it’s almost impossible to tame its vibrant power for versatile, daily wear. That’s why it tends to end up on the dials of extreme watches, and mostly divers designed to be read when you’re several metres deep in dark, murky waters. Well, in an attempt to break up the orange diver monopoly, here are some of the best orange dial watches.

Citizen Tsuyosa NJ0151-88Z

Citizen’s answer to the Tissot PRX and the general integrated bracelet craze has so far been very successful, spawning new references and even some with glamorous guilloché dials. However, one of the most eye-catching versions was released with the initial bunch in bright orange sunburst. The contrast between the steel baton indices and hands is very clean, as opposed to the loud visual style of the Seiko SSK005 (spoiler alert), and it helps the watch to feel much more subdued despite its colourful nature. The 40mm diameter reinforces the watch’s modesty and versatility, as does the integrated bracelet and recessed crown at 4 o’clock. Powered by the Miyota 8210, which needs no more than the time and date, this is a great option for an affordable pop of colour you can actually wear wherever you’re going. Price: US$450

Seiko 5 Sports SSK005

The announcement that Seiko had released a truly affordable GMT movement set off fireworks in the eyes of microbrand lovers across the world, but Seiko had already released one of the best possible uses for that new 4R34 calibre. The SSK005 takes that SKX-inspired look of the Seiko 5 Sports collection and decorates it with a lavish orange sunburst dial, which is rich in both colour and texture. It’s accented with golden hands and markers on the black bezel insert, and the cyclops date magnifier also makes it seem a little bit more sophisticated. The case is 42.5mm in diameter and 46mm lug-to-lug, offering compact wearability and a fairly secure 100m of water resistance. The US$475 RRP price tag is definitely a sizeable step above similar Seikos without the GMT complication, but you can almost always find these watches on sale at authorised dealers. Price: US$475

Nomos Club Campus 38 Future Orange

Proving that orange dials aren’t restricted to diving is the Nomos Club Campus 38 Future Orange. The Club Campus range is devoted to the specific niche of tertiary education, even including complimentary engraving to commemorate graduation ceremonies or other, similar goals achieved. But you don’t need to be a student to buy one, and they’re designed with a wonderful balance between fun and restraint, which makes it a perfect smart-casual option. The 38.5mm reference should fit most wrists nicely, considering the 48.9mm lug-to-lug length, and the light orange dial is closer to a refreshing marmalade than an in-your-face neon orange. The Bauhaus styling allows for petite baton hands, a California mix of Arabic and Roman numerals, and a small seconds subdial with a red hand. Plus, it’s powered by the in-house Alpha calibre, which is hand-wound for old-school connection. Price: starting from US$1,650

Doxa SUB 300

The Doxa SUB 300 definitely wasn’t the first watch to feature an orange dial when it launched in 1967, but upon Jacques Cousteau’s wrist, it helped define the archetype of all future orange divers. Aside from just looking cool, the contrast between the orange dial and the black markers is essential for legibility in tough conditions. The whole Professional dial is infused with a funkiness way ahead of its time too, considering the asymmetrical layout, monstrously thick minute hand, and the paddle seconds hand. Doxa’s patented decompression bezel was also introduced on this model, allowing divers to calculate their surfacing structures and avoid getting the bends. This reissued model is complete with a COSC-certified Sellita SW200-1, an extremely wearable 42.5mm case with a lug-to-lug of just 45mm, and a domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment. Price: US$2,932 from the Time+Tide Shop

Christopher Ward C12 Loco

Fan-favourite British-Swiss indie Christopher Ward has been pushing further up-market in recent years, with impressive watches like the C1 Bel Canto redefining haute horlogerie on a budget. The Bel Canto was a tough act to follow, but the eye-catching C12 Loco – with its prominent free-sprung balance beating away on the dial – is a feast for the eyes, especially in orange. A novel twin-barrel movement provides a 6-day power reserve, with the watch beating at an impressive 4Hz. While you can choose between either an integrated bracelet or dial-matching rubber strap, we reckon you should go for the former if you really want maximum flex factor. Price: US$4,595 (on rubber strap), US$4,825 (on bracelet)

Girard-Perregaux x Bamford Deep Diver

A modern revival of one of Girard-Perregaux’s most underrated dive watches, brought back with the help of iconoclastic watch customisers/purveyors Bamford Watch Department, the Deep Diver’s orange tones emphasise its 70s origins. Cased in titanium rather than the original’s steel, it’s an otherwise faithful reproduction of the chunky original, featuring a chunky tonneau cause, internal compressor-style bezel, paddle hands and even a retro Girard-Perregaux logo. Price: US$15,000

Hublot Big Bang Unico Orange Ceramic

If you don’t just want an orange-dialled watch, but an orange watch, I suggest you look in Hublot’s direction. Admittedly, the dial of Hublot’s new Big Bang Unico Orange Ceramic isn’t all that orange, but simply for its vibrant case, it’s deserving of being included, if not for the fact that it’s the first-ever orange ceramic case for the brand. Inside, you’ll find Hublot’s in-house MHUB1280 flyback chronograph, which has been designed to be pleasing to the eye from both sides, considering there isn’t a dial as such.  Price: US$29,600

T+T Timeless Pick: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver

Returning to the extreme end of the spectrum, the Royal Oak Offshore Diver is an unabashed behemoth of character. The 42mm case isn’t even all that big, but its presence certainly can’t be missed on any wrist. The tangerine dial is studded with the signature Méga Tapisserie texture, contrasted by a navy blue minute track and internally-rotating bezel for measuring elapsed time. The 300 metres of water resistance backs up its diving credentials, and the rubberised crowns ensure superior grip with wet fingers. The calibre 3120 is an automatic movement beating at 3Hz with a 60-hour power reserve, and a solid 22k gold winding rotor visible through a sapphire caseback. Price: ~US$20,000