THE HOME OF WATCH CULTURE

This Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph in blue ceramic is electric

This Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph in blue ceramic is electric

Zach Blass

No, I am not saying it is electric in that the watch uses electricity. It is 100% a mechanical watch. But, if you are wondering why we are taking the time to look back at a Watches and Wonders novelty from four months ago, it is because I do not feel we gave this Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph 160th Anniversary Limited Edition enough attention during the chaos of the watch industry’s biggest fair. The Defy Skyline Chronograph is a well-known and respected design, but this design took it up a notch, befitting of such a major milestone.

Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph 160th Blue Ceramic 1 4

Ceramic is now far more common in watchmaking than it was in past decades, but, despite the material permeating more and more brand catalogues, producing coloured ceramics beyond black and white (like our Zenith x Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton White Surfer Ceramic) is a skill set only a handful of brands are currently capable of. One of the industry’s leaders in this field is Zenith’s LVHM stablemate Hublot, which was the first brand to debut certain colours of ceramic (such as orange) and offers the widest spectrum of colours in the material. So, perhaps Zenith’s ‘sibling’ inspired the brand to go all out when it came time to celebrate its momentous 160th anniversary.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Time+Tide (@timetidewatches)

Blue was not selected just because it is a safe, fan-favourite colour. The blue utilised for the dial, case, and bracelet – indeed, pretty much all of the components aside from the pins in the bracelet, the clasp, the movement, and applied dial elements – is Zenith’s historic, signature blue colour that stems from the rich roots of the brand and its name.

“Legend has it that the Zenith name was inspired by a bright, night sky full of stars,” Zenith explains. “This vision came to its founder, Georges Favre-Jacot, as a reference to the highest point reached by a celestial body in the sky, symbolising the heights of excellence to which he aspired. Since then, the Maison has been driven by a relentless pursuit of perfection in every aspect of the watchmaking art. In line with this vision and reflecting the infinity of the skies, blue has become Zenith’s signature colour.”

Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph 160th Blue Ceramic 1 3

With the skies being its muse, it becomes much clearer as to why the brand had the foresight to file a trademark for the word “PILOT” in 1888 – 15 years before the Wright Brothers’ first flight – resulting in only Zenith being allowed to print the word “PILOT” on its dials to this day. It also explains why the brand’s logo is a star and why the star has been a recurring motif in its designs. Even this collection is named Skyline after all.

Looking at the watch, especially in-hand, it becomes clearer why I would refer to this watch (or any of the 160th anniversary blue ceramic limited editions) as electric. The blue hue really punches. It is not your more basic or familiar navy blue; it is borderline electric blue. To achieve this colour in ceramics is by no means a simple task, and one made even harder when a brand goes to the lengths of producing elements like bracelets or pushers in the material as well.

Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph 160th Blue Ceramic 3

The familiar faceted case and bezel, along with the familiar integrated quick-exchange bracelet, are all retained in this design. It continues to measure 42mm in diameter, 12.7mm thick, and 47.4mm lug-to-lug thanks to its sloped geometric lugs. It is also 100 metres water-resistant with a screw-down crown. So, between its dimensions, material, and specifications, it is ripe for daily wear despite its more flashy, bolder colour. Furthering its daily-wearer dependability, it is bundled with a starry-sky-textured blue rubber strap with a steel folding clasp, should you wish to switch up the look or the material hugging your wrist, depending on the season.

Although Zenith is known for its signature tri-coloured registers, every element of the dial, including the 4:30 date, features a consistent blue hue (excluding the applied indexes and hands, of course). However, with the primary dial decorated with the starry sky motif and the chronograph counters decorated with a more standard concentric texture, their expression of the colour is dynamic and slightly different depending on the angle.

Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph 160th Blue Ceramic 5

Inside, Zenith’s venerated in-house automatic high-beat El Primero 3600 calibre ticks away with a special “160 Years” rotor that has blue embedded within for its text. The winding rotor is also highly openworked, affording a better view of the calibre beneath and the components racing away at a high frequency. Despite being a high-beat movement, it is able to deliver an admirable 60 hours of power reserve.

Closing thoughts

Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph 160th Blue Ceramic 1 6

It is worth pointing out that this Skyline Chronograph is the first and only model within its segment to utilise ceramic. So, I can not speak to any possible premiums created by having a more vibrant coloured ceramic case and bracelet, or from being a limited edition. At CHF 22,900, it is a watch that is certainly not within reach of all budgets, but, then again, there are definitely more than 160 people capable and willing to bring one into their collection.

When looking at the broader market landscape as well, I think it is fair to say Zenith priced it more than fairly (as the brand typically does). It is a lot of watch for the dollar and a lot of colour on the wrist. And if you really love blue, Zenith is offering the three blue ceramic 160th anniversary limited editions as a boxed set as well.

Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph 160th Anniversary Edition pricing and availability

The Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph 160th Anniversary Edition is available now for enquiries. Price: CHF 22,900

Brand Zenith
Model Defy Skyline Chronograph 160th Anniversary Edition
Reference 49.9502.3600/51.I001
Case Dimensions 42mm (D) x 12.7mm (T) 47.4mm (LTL)
Case Material Blue ceramic
Water Resistance 100 metres, screw-down crown
Crystal(s) Sapphire front and back
Dial Blue-toned sunray, “starry sky” patterned
Strap Blue ceramic bracelet, double folding clasp
Blue rubber strap, steel folding clasp
Movement El Primero 3600, in-house, automatic, high-beat
Power Reserve 60 hours
Functions Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph
Availability Limited edition of 160 pieces
Price CHF 22,900