16 of the best watches under $50,000, if you’re keen on buying a grail
Borna BošnjakRounding out our buying guides and giving you just a taster from the latest edition of the NOW Mag, we go almost full out, with picks only limited by a lofty US$50,000 budget. Choosing only a few is especially tough, so if you’re keen to discover more picks, head on over to the Time+Tide Shop and pick up the NOW Magazine Issue 10, covering over 180 new releases. For more budget-conscious choices, also check out our under $500, under $1,000, under $5,000, and under $10,000 selections.
Ressence Type 9
The distinct design language of Ressence becomes more wearable and affordable, as the Type 9 becomes its smallest and cheapest model to date. The orbital system has been simplified as much as possible, and the titanium build helps the watch achieve a 39g weight that makes it ultra-light on the wrist. Fret not, you still get the patented ROCS 9 module built on top of a solid ETA movement. Price: US$14,000
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Bi-Colour
In what is perhaps set to become a micro-trend, Omega was among the first to bring two-tone back to one of its iconic designs, in this case, the Moonwatch, no less. Building on the latest Co-Axial, METAS-certified generation, the gold portions extend to the centre links of the bracelet, crown and chronograph pushers, and the bezel, while the dial opts for a golden panda tri-register layout that works really well. Price: US$18,100
Cartier Privé Tortue
No matter the bejewelled or mechanical brilliance displayed at Cartier’s Watches and Wonders booth each year, the sure-fire place to spot the down-bad watch-nerd/journalist is wherever they’re hiding the latest addition to the Privé collection. This year, we were graced by a duo of Tortue models, and this elegant, manually wound two-hander is certainly the connoisseur’s choice. And yes, yours truly is quite partial to it, could you tell? Price: US$33,000
Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence
The Convergence brings a lot of firsts for the re-envisioned Louis Vuitton watchmaking division. First of all, the harsh angles have been replaced by a soft, perfectly skippable pebble-like shape, while the jumping hours display is courtesy of a new La Fabrique du Temps automatic movement. At just 8mm thick, you can now have a dressy Tambour watch alongside the sporty, integrated bracelet model that’s already part of the catalogue. Price: US$33,500
Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222
Barely two weeks into the new year, and Vacheron Constantin already released what could become the watch of the year. The historic brand is celebrating its 270th anniversary in style, with a blue dial 222 in steel. It carries all the signatures of its predecessors, such as the notched bezel and discreet, gold Maltese cross embedded in the bottom right lug, but this time with a matte, powder blue dial. Price: US$32,000
Breguet Classique 5177
Modern Breguet watches are quite underrated when it comes to their dial quality, be it guilloché or enamel. This particular Classique is an example of the latter, where the brand uses a stunning black grand feu enamel, going as far as detailing the minute markers with stars rather than just regular indices. And only under certain lighting, you’ll be able to make out Breguet’s secret signature just below the pinion. Price: US$39,800
Rolex Daytona Le Mans
A white metal, black dial chronograph that’s ultra-rare sounds like the ultimate expression of stealth wealth. Except, of course, it’s not, because I’m talking about the Daytona Le Mans. And just in case anyone felt unsure whether it was much to write home about, Rolex discontinued it after a year, and replaced it with this, a yellow gold, even more opulent variant that leaves no doubts about how special it is. The price is a little bit over budget, but hey, who’s counting? Price: US$50,400
And a few more from previous NOW Magazine issues, because why not?
Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 126710
There is a distinct impression of Rolex which sees it as uncaring, aloof, and almost entirely separate from the customers who keep it as luxury watchmaking’s top dog. It’s clear that Rolex still sets a lot of trends rather than following them, but the Crown has definitely started to sprinkle in some references that feel like they’re actually servicing fans, this latest monochromatic GMT-Master II “Bruce Wayne” being one of them. Just make sure you pick it up on an Oyster bracelet... Price: US$10,900
Cartier Baignoire Mini
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This darling little Baignoire was one of many Cartier models introduced at last year’s Watches & Wonders, and this Mini variant on the yellow gold bangle bracelet is the perfect example of what Cartier does best. The Parisian house combines jewellery and watches effortlessly, explaining their meteoric rise in popularity in recent years. The Baignoire Mini sports a quartz movement, adjusted by a crown with an embedded blue sapphire cabochon, and its many variants are shown off here by @dimepiece’s Brynn Wallner. Price: US$11,800
Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar
This release is sort of a “what if” scenario, where Zenith could’ve released this watch as originally intended. Apparently, the intention to integrate a triple calendar into the El Primero A386 existed all the way back in 1969, but by the time Zenith produced them, the style had gone the way of 1970s funk. Thankfully, for both Zenith and its fans, the 1960s are very much in at the moment. Price: US$13,900
Angelus Instrument de Vitesse
Angelus has long been regarded as one of the finest chronograph makers around, though its most recent releases have largely focused on more avant-garde pieces. For 2024, however, the brand went back to basics with a simply delightful monopusher chronograph in a case that’s only 9.3mm tall. The manually wound La Joux-Perret-produced movement is an evolution of a Journe, Flageollet and Halter design, making it the stuff enthusiasts drool over. Price: US$17,300
Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier
Created by Parmigiani Fleurier, Bovet, and Chopard, the Qualité Fleurier approval is only given to Swiss watches of utmost quality, durability, and accuracy. With a Lucent Steel case with welded lugs and an unassuming dial, this L.U.C flew under the radar upon release, which is exactly what it was made to do, its overall execution turned up to 11. If you’re familiar with L.U.C, you’ll know that means serious business. Price: US$20,300
Alto ART 01
It’s the automotive world that Thibaud Guittard pulled much of his inspiration for the ART 01, Alto’s debut timepiece. The sharp angles are meant to remind us of the era of the wedge, a 1970s vehicle design trope championed by the likes of Giorgetto Giugiaro. The ART 01 isn’t just about looks, though. Powered by a Cercle des Horlogers-developed micro-rotor movement, the time is displayed normally, except for the seconds hand, which runs backwards. Price: US$20,350
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding
As its name may suggest, the Traditionnelle is Vacheron Constantin’s collection most concerned with keeping the design of the maison alive, but up-to-date with modern expectations. With a small seconds indication and pink gold case, this Traditionnelle sums up the raison d’être of the model well, with a case size that has become synonymous with contemporary dress watches and a dial colour that has dominated over the last few years. Price: US$23,700
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date Golden Siena
The overhaul that Guido Terreni spearheaded transformed the Parmigiani brand from a niche luxury into one of the strongest visual identities that Swiss watchmaking has to offer. There was only one gripe with the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor from the utmost of purists, and that was the inclusion of a date window. Now, the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date Golden Siena gives them no excuses not to want one. Price: US$25,300
Romain Gauthier Freedom C Titanium Edition Five
Romain Gauthier’s watchmaking skill has to be among the most underappreciated in the business. Not only is the C a stunning addition to the oversaturated luxury sports watch market, but a single look at the manually wound movement will have your jaw drop in awe. Peel your eyes off the hand-hammered titanium dial, and prepare to stick them back onto the caseback as you examine the perfectly chamfered bridges. Price: US$43,000