10 of the best and smokiest fumé dials you can buy today
Tom AustinWhen it comes to dial finishes, few treatments have the same visual impact as a fumé dial. The French word for “smoked,” the term fumé sounds just as elegant as it looks, describing a rich, gradient finish that darkens toward the edges like a summer evening’s sunset. Call it dégradé, gradient, or even tonal fade if you’re feeling literal, but the idea is the same: a smoky transition of colour that adds drama, depth, and sometimes a bit of vintage flair. It’s moody, it’s charismatic, and right now, it’s having a bit of a moment. Here are a few standout examples that show just how good a smoky fumé dial can get.
Christopher Ward The Twelve 40 (Ti)
Unless you’ve been living under a horological rock this last couple of years, you’ll be well aware of Christopher Ward’s meteoric rise in the British watchmaking scene by now. Watches such as the Bel Canto and their latest C12 Loco have helped the brand firmly assert its dominance, and in 2023, another model was introduced that gave Christopher Ward a footing in the integrated bracelet game, The Twelve.
The 40mm titanium variation of the Twelve offers two dials that stand out from the rest of the range, in a gradient Astral Blue or Nebula Purple, both of which fade away at the edge of the dial to a charcoal black finish. The dial on the Twelve itself is a showstopper, featuring a distinctive pyramid motif across the dial’s surface, adding depth and texture. But these two exclusive options on the titanium model offer a more luxurious look entirely, without the wallet-busting price tag. Price: US$1,895, exclusively in-store at Time+Tide Discovery Studios
Rado Anatom Automatic
Rado’s Anatom is a watch that incorporates a fumé dial into its core design more than most. Many of the watch cases in the Anatom range are in a deep, black high-tech ceramic, with a convex sapphire crystal that covers the entire front face of the case. The darker edges of the fumé dials blend into the black case, allowing for the burst of vibrant colour in the centre to float in the middle of the watch seamlessly.
Right now, there are six different variations of the Anatom that feature graduated fumé dials. In the standard range, there are slightly more subtle tones, such as blue, brown and green. Still, our pick of the litter would definitely be the recently released Summer Collection, showcasing a vibrant set of Grapefruit Red, Lemon Yellow and Lime Green dials with a fumé finish. Price: US$3,550
anOrdain Model 1
Outside of brands from Switzerland or Japan, there aren’t that many that specialise in in-house enamelled dial finishes as beautifully as the Scottish brand AnOrdain does. Its Model 1 is a classically elegant time-only dress watch suitable for everyday wear, and recently, they released a range of enamel fumé dials that look incredible. Available in green, grey, blue or a dark red “Plum”, the fumé dial’s unique texture is a result of a chemical reaction between the enamel and the dial’s silver surface, bringing a subtle texture which shimmers in the light and is unique on every single dial.
At 38mm in diameter and just 11mm thick, the Model 1 is a well-proportioned, casual watch, with a subtle hint of dressiness about it thanks to the sumptuous dial. AnOrdain also offers bespoke engraving and a choice of movements; either a Sellita SW210 or a La Joux-Perret G101, allowing for further customisation to make the watch truly yours after securing a build reservation. Price: US$4,003 + tax
Omega Seamaster Railmaster
The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra range gained a new stablemate a few weeks back in the form of the revived Railmaster. There has always been significant discussion around the Railmaster’s dial in every iteration over the years, but the latest incarnation does a great job of nodding to its roots while feeling fresh by offering a contemporary option. At 38mm, the new model is decidedly vintage-inspired and has elevated the modern Railmaster from a niche outlier to a connoisseur’s choice.
The Railmaster is available in two dial variations, the first being a modern grey with a black gradient effect and white SuperLuminova, and the second with a beige-to-black gradient with pumpkin-coloured lume. The second option is a more vintage-inspired look, especially as it ditches the central seconds in favour of a small-seconds dial at six o’clock. While both have very different aesthetics, both gradient dials offer a significantly more unique look than the rest of the Aqua Terra range. Price: US$5,800 (grey), US$6,000 (beige)
Glashütte Original Sixties Chronograph
Glashütte Original’s Vintage collection is where the German brand offers watches that hark back to their heritage, all while adding some quirky details but retaining that exceptional level of quality Glashütte (both the town and the brand) is known for. The Sixties Chronograph is an exemplification of this, bringing quirky classic details and tasteful dial finishing to the forefront. There are three dial options with this watch, all with a fumé gradient style; one grey, one green and one blue, all neatly fading to black on the outside, where the dial slopes downwards.
The grey and green options feature an irregular, textured surface finish, produced using vintage tools and machinery crafted by GO itself. The texture adds to that unique smoky look and contrasts with the alternative blue option, which is smoother and devoid of the texture of the others. The 42mm Sixties Chronograph is a beautifully finished watch that deserves more attention, especially at this price point. Price: starting at US$9,300
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris
Underrated, underappreciated, and somewhat overshadowed by its Reverso cousin, it’s easy to overlook Jaeger-LeCoultre’s more sportier line-up. But looking deeper, it’s clear that JLC’s rigorous attention to detail and finishing extends way into its other collections, with the Polaris collection standing out as a strong contender with a fantastic set of dials. For the Polaris, three colour variations are available across a standard time and date watch, a travel timer and a perpetual calendar model: black, blue and green, all featuring a deep fumé laquered finish, deepening towards the edges.
Each Polaris dial features a sunburst central medallion, which is overlaid above a shimmering fumé finish underneath a sumptuous 35 layers of lacquer, and is completed with applied markers and an inner rotating timing bezel. The Polaris collection, while on the slightly expensive side, does feature some stunning in-house movements, naturally for JLC. Price: starting from US$11,100
Leica ZM 1 & 2 Green Fumé
The German company Leica, best known for its excellent cameras, is currently on its newfound journey in the world of watchmaking. And much like its impact on the photography industry in the last couple of decades, Leica is causing a stir with its line of attention-grabbing wristwatches. Two models that stand out in this line-up are the impressive ZM1 and the ZM2, which were both upgraded with gorgeous fumé dial offerings a few weeks ago.
The beautiful green fumé dials are both treated to a brushed finish, with their hue fading into black towards the edges, with green being chosen to “make a statement about nature’s elegance in form and function”, but also of course because nature is a popular subject for photography. The ZM1 & 2 both feature a mechanical hand-wound movement made by Lehmann, that have interesting complications that nod to the functions of a camera, which is a unique touch. Price: US$12,500 (ZM1), US$16,850 (ZM2)
Rolex Day-Date 40 ‘Ombré’
Dials on Rolex Day-Dates have been a hot topic for decades, with several variations over the years ending up being significantly collectible and highly desirable. Whether it’s the Stella dials of the 70s and 80s, or tasteful stone dials in carnelian or turquoise, there’s something for everyone. More recently, Rolex quietly reintroduced what they refer to as a “Slate Ombré” dial on the Day-Date 40mm, and naturally, it’s gorgeous.
The dials feature a multi-layered black lacquer finish, which is treated to a sunburst effect, and gradually fades from slate grey to black at the edges. The result, when paired with the Everose gold of the case and bracelet, is stunning, especially with the rose gold applied hour markers, contrasting the gradient finish. The best thing about this particular Day-Date is that this dial configuration will never go out of style. Price: US$47,500
H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner
Arguably the king of fumé dials, Moser really knows how to rock a gradient. The Streamliner, with its huge dial aperture and minimalist look, makes for the perfect canvas to showcase stunning dial finishes, and our favourite is probably the Perpetual Calendar, with its gorgeous smoked salmon griffé finish. Not only does it manage to combine a complex perpetual calendar complication with an extremely minimalist layout, but the dial finish is one of those you just cannot look away from.
The smoked salmon griffé dial features a gorgeously subtle pinky-beige hue, with the Griffé finish referring to the hand-finished striations that give that subtle textured effect. Griffé literally means “clawed” or “scratched” in French, but the effect here on the Streamliner is much more sophisticated, and combined with the unique steel case shape, makes for a stunning example of quiet luxury. Price: US$62,650
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin
There are more than a few AP Royal Oaks with captivating dials; for many, that’s the main attraction of the watch, and part of where the heightened interest for the Royal Oak comes from. We love to see what AP has in store for us next, and one of the best examples to release in a long time is the smoked yellow-gold-toned “Petite Tapisserie” dial of the yellow gold Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin. The dial features one of the hardest transitional gradients in this list, from a bright and vibrant yellow gold to a deep, harsh black, right at the edges of the textured dial.
Probably one of the most desirable watches here, the Jumbo Extra Thin comes in 18-carat yellow gold, with that iconic, Genta-designed integrated bracelet case featuring just the right blend of polished and brushed surfaces. Inside beats the in-house automatic calibre 7121, and it’s arguably one of the best-fitting Royal Oaks to wear, at 39mm in diameter, and just 8.1mm thick. Price: US$89,100