Bulgari brings us a new vision of the Serpenti with the Aeterna

Russell Sheldrake

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It’s a brave man who attempts to reimagine an icon, but over at Bulgari, they don’t seem to turn away from a challenge. The Serpenti has been an iconic shape for the Roman brand for decades now, and that recognisable snake’s head that is often combined with the Tubogas bracelet has been seen from ballrooms to silver screens for generations. So why mess with it? Well, the world doesn’t stand still, and neither should designs, and the new Serpenti Aeterna is a testament to that, especially after seeing the brand’s radical collaboration with MB&F. Let’s dig into what makes up this new angular design a bit more.

The case and bracelet

I’m lumping the case and bracelet together here, as they feel like one continuous piece on this bangle, from the pointed nose as it wraps around to the slim tail. Available in either rose or white gold, this is possibly the most stripped-back version of the Serpenti we’ve ever seen. The combined case and bracelet are covered in diamonds, and form a solid bangle with a hinge at the bottom, with a small and a large size available in the rose, and just the large in white. The rose is only half-set, while the diamonds wrap around the entirety of the white gold piece. The bracelet tapers in a lovely way to make this bangle feel even more elegant, and as it twists slightly, the tail comes around to just pass the head of the snake and sit nicely on top of the wrist.

Diamonds play a big part in the Serpenti Aeterna, with a pretty comprehensive coverage across the case, bracelet, and dial. Even the crown on the rose gold version features a large, brilliant cut at its top, and a ring of smaller stones around its circumference, while the white gold has an emerald atop its crown. That white gold piece also features a number of oversized diamonds set into its bracelet for that added sparkle. The inner surface of the bangle has a hexagonal motif cut into it, evoking the scales of previous editions.

The dial

The dials of both pieces are pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, giving an edge-to-edge coverage. The rose gold piece has matching hands, while the white goes for contrasting green. These arrow-shaped dials are a lot sharper and more featureless than previous versions, prioritising styling over functionality. Having no markers or indicators allows the stones to shine to their fullest. While it may be a bit harder to read the time on this piece, there is no mistaking the style and elegance this watch is able to accomplish.

The movement

Inside is a teeny-tiny quartz calibre that allows this elegant design to stick to its form over function concept. Would the Aeterna be improved in my eyes if it had a mechanical movement inside? Not really. This is a statement watch that you probably won’t be wearing every day, so for me, a quartz movement is perfect as you don’t need to worry about it being left for extended periods in between various fancy functions.

The verdict

This is a completely new look for a watch that has had a pretty consistent design for a long time, and whenever that happens, it will always ruffle a few feathers (or scales). But here, I think Bulgari have managed to boil the design down to its very essence, removing many features that make it so eye-catching and in turn creating something that feels very much a part of the Serpenti family, but without the design feeling lazy. The Serpenti Aeterna is an excellent example of taking a well-known design and giving it a new life, and for that reason, I’m a big fan of this watch.

Bulgari Serpenti Aeterna pricing and availability

The Bulgari Serpenti Aeterna is available from the brand and its retailers now. Price: on request

Brand	Bulgari
Model	Serpenti Aeterna
Bracelet Dimensions	145mm or 155mm
Case Material	18k rose or white gold
Water Resistance	Not stated
Crystal(s)	Sapphire
Dial	Pave-set diamonds
Bracelet	Bangle with a hinge at the bottom
Movement	Quartz
Battery Life	Not stated
Functions	Hours, minutes
Availability	Available now
Price	On request