The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms range reaches new depths with the Automatique 38mm
Zach BlassA 45mm case is irrefutably large. 42mm still a bit large, though, admittedly, with some room for debate. But I have never met anyone who felt 38mm was not an acceptable size for most wrists. It’s known as the Goldilocks diameter, so surely everyone will be glad to the new 38mm Blancpain Fifty Fathoms joining the Automatique 42 and 45 in regular production. And it’s not just the mother of pearl dial models from last week. Today, Blancpain debuts more.
I’m not going to lie, I am having a bit of a déjà vu here. A little over a year ago, Blancpain made a splash with its most wearable regular production model yet: the Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42mm. In the same vein, we once again have a moment where Blancpain is really listening to consumer feedback, elevating the wrist democracy of the collection further with a 38mm version. But as their designs get smaller, watches often have to make compromises, so the question is this: have Blancpain made any in shrinking the Fifty Fathoms to 38mm?
The case
Just like the 42mm and 45mm segments, the new 38mm design is available in stainless steel, titanium, and red gold cases, all of which are 300 metres water-resistant with a screw-down crown. So, no decrease in depth rating. The formula continues with titanium and red gold cases, executed with a full brush, and stainless steel in a full polish. Additionally, a unidirectional timing bezel with a domed sapphire insert matches the dial. The only decreases are the thickness, which now clocks in at just 12mm, and a shorter lug-to-lug span of 43.9mm.
The movement
This major drop in thickness can really be attributed to the calibre switch-up, as Blancpain has used the in-house 1150 in place of the 1315 we are accustomed to. The 1150 allows for a thinner case because the movement is just 3.2mm thick, dropping more than 2mm compared to the 5.65mm of the 1315. So, what do you lose with this drop in thickness?
Putting them head-to-head, the calibres are both decorated to the same, elaborate level – the 1150 is outfitted with a NAC-treated, 18k gold winding rotor just like the 1315. However, it ‘only’ has 100 hours of power reserve compared to the 120 hours offered by the 1315, and runs at 3Hz rather than 4Hz. I doubt any of you are fussed about a 20-hour loss in power reserve, and 100 hours is still well beyond weekend-proof. In terms of the beat rate, I also suspect most of you do not find that to be a major concession, especially when the result is a 12mm-thick case.
The dials
Beyond the initial black and pink mother-of-pearl dial models from last week, which options are on the table? The first, which we went hands-on with, is a stainless steel model with a fully polished case, black sunburst dial, and black bezel insert. Then, we have a grade 23 titanium variant with a fully brushed case, and a blue sunburst dial and bezel. Lastly, following the cues of the titanium model, the red gold configuration has a sunburst blue dial and bezel insert as well. All of the dials continue the layout of its 42mm predecessor with the same, bold Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6, and 9. And, yes, a date at the 4:30 position. But, hey, it is colour-matched to the dial.
The straps
Like we have seen before, the new Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm models are all available on tropic rubber, NATO, and sailcloth canvas straps with matching hardware. For the rubber and canvas straps, you can choose between a pin buckle or a folding clasp, but the steel and titanium models have the added benefit of also being available on a case-matching bracelet with a butterfly clasp.
The verdict
I know this may seem like a rather brisk overview, and to some extent, it is. But that’s for good reason. The dive watch icon is still the icon. Yes, the calibre has a little less stamina and a slower rate, but everything about this Fifty Fathoms in 38mm upholds the design signatures, robustness, and quality the collection demands. I don’t want to start World War 38mm, but I suspect some of the macho men out there won’t feel all that excited about this new size.
In a watch media landscape that has recently pushed the narrative that smaller is better, there is still a broader marketplace crying #largewristsmatter. But this is ultimately the beauty of where the Fifty Fathoms collection now stands. There is now a model for every wrist, and a range of three regular-production sizes that have 100 hours or more of power reserve, a variety of materials to choose from, and a 300-metre depth rating. I may have had a little shrink it and pink it concerns with the initial mother of pearl models, but now we have tried-and-true black and blue dials as well.
The irony of the Fifty Fathoms line is that the most requested size is probably 40mm, but it’s one that has always been reserved for limited editions. I suspect some of you watching are wishing this was 40mm instead of 38mm. I don’t have the sales figures at my disposal, but if the data backs it in the wake of 38mm and 42mm sizes, I would argue Blancpain should flip the script, make the 45mm a limited edition-exclusive, and move 40mm to regular production. With larger pieces like the Fifty Fathoms Tech, I also wonder if a 45mm regular Fifty Fathoms is a little redundant.
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm pricing and availability
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm is available now for purchase. Price: starting from US$16,700 (see full details below)
| Brand | Blancpain |
| Model | Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm |
| Case Dimensions | 38mm (D) x 12mm (T) x 43.9mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel Grade 23 titanium 18k red gold |
| Water Resistance | 300 metres, screw-down crown |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Black, sunburst finish (stainless steel) Blue, sunburst finish (titanium, red gold) |
| Lug Width | 19mm |
| Strap | NATO, case-matching hardware Tropic rubber, case-matching pin buckle or folding clasp Sailcloth, case-matching pin buckle or folding clasp Bracelet, butterfly clasp (titanium, stainless only) |
| Movement | 1150, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 100 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date, unidirectional diving bezel |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | On NATO: US$16,700 (stainless steel), US$17,900 (titanium), US$30,600 (18k red gold)
On tropic rubber: US$16,700 (stainless steel, pin buckle), US$18,200 (stainless steel, deployant), US$17,900 (titanium, pin buckle), US$19,800 (titanium, deployant), US$30,600 (18k red gold, pin buckle), US$34,000 (18k red gold, deployant) On sail-canvas: US$16,700 (stainless steel, pin buckle), US$18,200 (stainless steel, deployant), US$17,900 (titanium, pin buckle), US$19,800 (titanium, deployant), US$30,600 (18k red gold, pin buckle), US$34,000 (18k red gold, deployant) On bracelet: US$19,500 (stainless steel), US$21,100 (titanium) |