Does the echo/neutra Rivanera have what it takes to be a class-leading dress watch?
Borna BošnjakOver the course of a year that saw a new, design-forward trend emerging, we really shouldn’t be surprised to see that a design-forward microbrand is releasing a watch that pushes that envelope. Looking at echo/neutra’s previous releases (like the Cortina 1956 Chr0no and Chrono GMT), you might expect their dress watch to also conform to a mid-century aesthetic. After all, some of the best dress watches of all time do just that. The echo/neutra Rivanera is not a 1950s-inspired dress watch, though. Its cold, titanium edges and stark dials are a far cry from the warm tones of mid-century modern, leaning more towards Eastern Bloc prefab than Eames House. So, with such a design in mind, can the Rivanera provide the experience of the dress watch it’s trying to be?
Industrial, brutal, or just rectangular?
When I first got the Rivanera in my hands, what captured my attention right away was how tactile the case really was. The sandblasting of the grade 5 titanium has the texture of the finest-grit sandpaper – not unpleasant by any means, but certainly letting you know this isn’t some basic brushed surface. Looking down the flanks, the only highlights to this matte material come via a thin, polished channel that takes you from the top of the lugs and bezel into the side of the case. It’s a unique look as, more often than not, these bevels are used as transitions between different surfaces. On the Rivanera, they’re the main event, framing or underscoring the rest of the design no matter the angle.
Combine this with subtle indents that differentiate the lugs from the bezel, and you have a really compelling, minimal design. Is it brutalist in the true sense of the word? Not really. But then again, its design is far from being functional first, so I wouldn’t call the Rivanera industrial. Though treated rather than left in its raw form, the rough surfaces of the titanium are carefully shaped to be beautiful, and evocative of béton brut. That’s brutalist enough for me, and another watch inspired by this idea to add to the growing list.
Plenty of presence
Putting the Rivanera on, the 40mm lug-to-lug length immediately wears a lot bigger. Thanks to the ultra-thin case at just 5.9mm and a totally flat caseback, it’s not one of those watches that feel like they’re wrapped around your wrist. At 27mm wide, it’s a little smaller than a Tank Must XL, but wears very similarly.
And speaking of the wearing experience, echo/neutra curiously includes two black leather straps with each Rivanera. One is a pebbled calfskin, and the other a Horween shell cordovan, both of which feel to be reasonably high-quality, and have included case-matching pin buckles. Including two straps of a very similar style doesn’t bother me too much, as the 20mm lug width will make them versatile enough for other watches in one’s collection, but what doesn’t make sense to me is that the straps aren’t quick-release, something that’s fairly standard across the (microbrand) industry. It’s really the only objective downside of the Rivanera, though I’m not sure it would be enough of a downside to dissuade me personally. Your mileage may vary, though.
A round peg in a square hole
The reason why echo/neutra was able to slim down the Rivanera so significantly is visible through a round, sapphire caseback. The Peseux 7001 is one of the most-respected entry-level, manual movements for its longevity, accuracy, and slimness. In the Rivanera, it beats away at its usual 3Hz beat rate, with a power reserve of up to 42 hours. It also scrubs up pretty well, though I do feel like echo/neutra missed an opportunity to do something special here. I’ve already seen people complaining about a round movement in a rectangular case, and while that doesn’t bother me personally, a unique way of decorating the movement that would better tie it into the rest of the case would be really cool. Granted, such custom work would’ve likely added a significant chunk to the cost (an example being Furlan Marri’s Disco Volante), so I can totally understand keeping it as it is.
Closing thoughts
The easiest way to conclude this would be to answer the question posed in the heading, and in a nutshell, the answer is a resounding yes. The Rivanera has a well-considered, minimal design, an ultra-slim case, and is well-priced for the movement that it houses. And yet, like the best watches out there, it’s more than just on-paper specs. For starters, the case is titanium, which not only matches the aesthetic ethos of the watch but also amplifies how slim and lithe it feels on the wrist. The faceted crown fits in with the straight-cut edges but also provides plenty of grip for manual-winding, something that dress watches often forget about as they try to make their crowns as invisible as possible.
But it’s also not a traditional dress watch at all – I mean, just look at it. The grained, titanium surfaces are a far cry from the luxurious, shiny polishing of a precious metal case, and it also wears with a lot more presence than its dimensions may suggest. So, is it the kind of dress watch you expected? Probably not, not even if you’re expecting something different, and your perception will likely change once you actually put it on. Luckily, you can do just that at our Discovery Studios, as we have them in both our London and Melbourne locations for a limited time. I can’t believe I’m signing off with a shill.
echo/neutra Rivanera pricing and availability
The echo/neutra Rivanera is now available exclusively in-store at our Time+Tide Discovery Studios in Melbourne (Rivanera Grey, Rivanera Black) and London (Rivanera Grey, Rivanera Black). Price: A$2,750, £1,268
| Brand | echo/neutra |
| Model | Rivanera |
| Case Dimensions | 27mm (W) x 5.9mm (T) x 40mm (LTL) |
| Case material | Grade 5 titanium |
| Water Resistance | 30 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Matte black or grey |
| Lug Width | 20mm |
| Bracelet and strap | Black shell cordovan, titanium pin buckle Black grained calf leather, titanium pin buckle |
| Movement | Peseux 7001, manual winding |
| Power Reserve | 42 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds |
| Availability | Limited quantities exclusively in-store at Time+Tide’s Melbourne and London Watch Discovery Studios |
| Price | A$2,750 £1,268 |