Why the Zelos Skyraider 40 Skeleton Titanium is totally unique
Buffy AcaciaFor a microbrand that came about on Kickstarter, Zelos has achieved incredible things. I often credit Zelos as one of the main proponents for meteorite dials, strong luminous markers with multiple colours, and heavily faceted cases that we see across many brands now. And while Zelos still makes its incredible bang-for-buck dive watches that sell out as quickly as they’re released, its value extends into the more expensive end of its catalogue, too. The Skyraider 40 Skeleton Titanium is just another example of its unique brand power, defying all expectations of what you can get for less than US$2,000.
The case
Zelos’ recognisable style has never been limited to watch dials, as its cases have so much character. The Skyraider 40 Skeleton Titanium is one of its more traditional cases if anything, but still the harsh angles and brutal jaggedness break through. It’s quite close to a standard pilot’s watch, with a slender bezel for maximum dial space and acute lugs which don’t pull too much focus. The large crown with its conical faceting plays into that vein too, as well as helping you to wind the hand-wound movement within. If you’re worried about the relative softness of titanium, this case has been hardened to 1,200 Hv, giving it a scratch resistance just short of ceramics.
The dimensions are on-point for a pilot’s watch that’s designed to be noticed, while still remaining wearable on a daily basis. The diameter is 40mm with a 46mm lug-to-lug length which should fit the average wrist perfectly. What’s more impressive is the case thickness, which is just 8.2mm before you take into account the box-domed sapphire crystal bringing it up to 9.9mm. It’s definitely within the range of sliding beneath a cuff, but comfort is the main priority. The titanium case and bracelet ensure it’s light on the wrist, as well as give the watch its dusky grey hue. A 50m water resistance is a little disappointing for something that could otherwise have been a swimmable sports watch, but that’s a fair sacrifice to make for the thinness of the case.
The dial
Most affordable skeleton watches tend to look the same because they all use the same few movements and tricks to hollow them out, however Zelos takes extra measures to ensure that it’s set apart from the rest. We’ll come back to the specifics of the movement later, but the way the upper layer of dial skeletonisation has been handled is quite special. There has been an emphasis placed on curves as the bridges worm their way across the dial, with distinct arms travelling from left to right. Near 3 o’clock, a section has been engraved with the Zelos logo to avoid the need for printing which would distract from the overall appearance. At 12, there are only a few sparse struts to allow a full view of the mainspring barrel which is also skeletonised.
At 6 o’clock there is a sub-dial for the running seconds, accentuated with a semi-floating red hand. That would be cool on its own, but what’s cooler is that the seconds track perfectly frames the gear that carrier the hand, so it truly feels like you’re watching the movement do its best work. To ensure that you can still read the time, a pair of modernised alpha hands point to a chapter ring around the dial’s perimeter, from which some luminous hour markers jut at the quarters. The 12 o’clock index is a triangle with two dots, also tying the watch back to piloting traditions.
The movement
There isn’t a lot of information available about the Marvin 700 which Zelos has used for the Skyraider 40 Skeleton, but here is what I could piece together. Its architecture is closely related to an ETA/Unitas 6498, but substantially downsized. but Marvin was founded in 1850 and had a fairly long run of success, both manufacturing movements and selling watches with other movements, even from the likes of early Rolex. Its main claim to fame was the Flying Dutchman model of the 1950s and ‘60s, and partnering with airlines and luxury automotive companies for their staff to wear Marvin watches. The company was all but abandoned during the quartz crisis of the ‘70s, and that’s where this supply of the Marvin 700 calibres came from.
Other Marvin 700 movements have been used by Longines, but Zelos seems to have snagged a small supply of them for refurbishment and skeletonisation. Some may say that doing all of this work to a NOS movement is heresy, but I applaud Zelos’ bravery. The result is an intricate and hypnotising movement that you can study for hours, especially given the etching and decoration on some of the components. You can even roughly gauge the watch’s power reserve by checking the mainspring from the front side of the dial.
The bracelet
No part of a Zelos watch is allowed to be boring. Sure, the 20mm lug width and quick-release spring bars mean that you can put pretty much any strap you want on the Skyraider 40 Skeleton Titanium, but the supplied titanium bracelet is irresistible. The single-link style plays into the biomech style in which Zelos thrives, as if it were an android’s spine. The brushed finish is softer than you might expect, leading to a diffused glow that’s surprisingly otherworldly. Plus, the clasp includes an on-the-fly micro-adjustment which is better integrated than what you can find on most luxury watches. The taper of the bracelet also helps to reduce the overall weight, and improves its comfort.
The verdict
Sometimes a watch which presents itself as great value for money can just feel like a list of specifications thrown together, and the price point is the only thing that feels attractive about it. That’s not the case with the Zelos Skyraider 40 Titanium. It happens to be an incredibly attractive watch with an earnest vision behind its design, and it’s also got favourable specs. Throw in a refurbished vintage movement with custom skeletonisation, and you’ve got something which few other brands would even attempt to make, let alone sell for less than US$2,000 or even twice that. It’s no surprise that these watches are selling out fast, and there are only five pieces remaining at the time of writing. Get in quick, or keep an eye out for future versions in alternative materials.
Zelos Skyraider 40 Skeleton Titanium price and availability
The Zelos Skyraider 40 Skeleton Titanium is now available, with five pieces left at the time of writing. There are also seven pieces remaining with a leather strap and white Cerakote coating on the case. Price: US$1,749
| Brand | Zelos |
| Model | Skyraider 40 Skeleton Titanium |
| Case Dimensions | 40mmm (D) x 9.9mm (T) x 46mm (LTL) |
| Case material | Titanium hardened to 1,200 Hv |
| Water Resistance | 50 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Skeletonised with black rhodium treatment |
| Bracelet | Hardened titanium bracelet, quick-release, micro-adjust folding clasp |
| Movement | New-old-stock Marvin 700, hand-wound |
| Power Reserve | ~46 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | US$1,749 |