A quartet of new Seiko 5 Sports SKX Series models brings back the 7002 diver, kinda
Borna BošnjakLooking across the current 5 Sports model range, most models continue the lineage from the legendary Seiko SKX. While they’ve improved upon the antiquated 7s26 movement and added features like a GMT, they have become more of an all-around sports watch collection when compared to the ISO-certified diver that the SKX was. But outside of enthusiast circles, that hasn’t really affected their popularity. The latest addition to the 5 Sports SKX Series collection is a quartet that actually references the SKX’s predecessor, the Seiko 7002, though doing so in design rather than spec, as some may have hoped. Nevertheless, with funky colours and new bracelet and strap options, the SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87, and SRPL89 are a welcome addition. We got our hands on two of the models from the Seiko 5 “7002-style” collection, and this is what’s new.
The dial
Though it was by no means the first to do it, the round hour markers and oddly shaped cardinal points are part of what made the SKX legendary. It was never the prettiest, but its functionality was unquestionable, so it’s no surprise that the 5KX continued the legacy. Concerning today’s duo, however, the dial is the biggest point of differentiation. The Seiko 7002 diver preceded the SKX (with a 1988 – 1996 production run), and is recognisable by its rectangular lume pips and the elongated, split triangle at 12.
As it tends to go with Seiko, the original 7002s were produced in a variety of coloured dials and bezels, but the new SKX Series keeps it reasonably simple. All the indices get the puffy printing we’re accustomed to from Seiko’s 5KX range, including the day/date window that isn’t colour-matched to the dials, but does fit into the overall aesthetic of the dial reasonably well. There are four colourways – a black and a blue with matching bezels, a yellow with a black bezel, and finally an orange with gold bezel markings. Personally, I’m a huge fan of the brightly coloured examples (especially the orange), as they really hone in on the ’80s feel of the models’ designs.
Speaking of those bezels, the new 7002 Style gets Hardlex inserts that offer up some funky reflections, though the Seiko proprietary mineral glass is still unfortunately used for the main crystal. It really should be sapphire in the year of our lord 2025.
The case
If you’ve ever put on a Seiko SKX or any of its derivatives (and I’d expect most people reading this to have done so at some point), you’ll know how these wear. The SKX Series’ cases measure in at 42.5mm in diameter and 46mm lug-to-lug, with the latter measurement making all the difference on-wrist, and making the size much easier to pull off for the smaller-wristed among us. That said, the 7002 Style in particular does increase in thickness by half a millimetre to 13.9mm total. In all honesty, I’m not sure where this additional height comes from, as it’s really not noticeable on the wrist.
As these novelties are part of Seiko’s current 5 Sports line, it means they continue with push-pull crowns and only 100 metres of water-resistance, as opposed to screw-down and 200 metres (or 150 metres for some 7002s) of the SKX. This has been by far the most controversial change with the advent of the SKX’s discontinuation, and one that is understandable to a degree. Seiko’s most capable divers have moved to the Prospex range, and have also increased in price, while the 5 Sports retained the original tenets of the collection and only took on the SKX visual design. While it’s not a dealbreaker given the relative affordability of the models in the current 5 Sports collection, it would be nice to have.
The bracelet and strap
On the topic of changes, one absolutely welcome one that is introduced with the 7002-inspired pieces is the new three-link bracelet. Design-wise, it’s not a far cry from what we see on the rest of the SKX Series watches, but the uptick in quality is very noticeable in-hand. The construction feels less jangly (though I must say this is particularly charming in the Jubilee-style Seiko models), and the links have a more pronounced shape and far superior finishing. Granted, the clasp is still of a stamped variety, but hey, I’ll take the win.
It’s worth mentioning that the bracelet is only available on the blue and black models, while the brightly coloured numbers get a pliable silicone strap. There is really not much to the design apart from three grooves just before the spring bars – my guess is this design cue intends to emulate the wavy, extendable bits found on some of Seiko’s other plastic/rubber straps. For daily wear, I’d almost certainly prefer the bracelet, but for sporty applications, the softness of the silicone would be a nice option.
The movement
Continuing to be the champion of Seiko’s entry-level, the 4R36 calibre also powers the new 7002-style SKX Series. It’s completely unpretentious, with no decoration to speak of (though visible through the Hardlex caseback), and is essentially a 7s26 with hacking and hand-winding, matching its 41-hour power reserve and 3Hz beat rate. It might not be much to look at, but it’ll be reliable for years, and when the time comes, cheap and easy to service or even replace.
The verdict
Seiko has been riffing on the nostalgia factor with quite a few iterations of the 5KX, and the 7002 Style is just the next in line. As long as Seiko keeps them affordable and fun, I think some of the middling specs can be forgiven, given just how well the SKX case wears, and especially with incremental upgrades such as the bracelet in question. While there will be die-hard Seiko collectors who aren’t afraid of delving into the oft-murky waters surrounding vintage 7002s, the new SRPL quartet is a safe alternative to those who want the look, without the risk. They’ll end up with a pretty cool watch on their wrist.
Seiko 5 Sports SKX Series SRPL83 SRPL85 SRPL87 SRPL89 pricing and availability
The Seiko 5 Sports SKX Series “7002 Style” is now available in four colourways. Price: A$650, US$385, €400 (strap), A$695, US$425, €440 (bracelet)
| Brand | Seiko |
| Model | 5 Sports SKX Series |
| Reference Number | SRPL83 SRPL85 SRPL87 SRPL89 |
| Case Dimensions | 42.5mm (D) x 13.9mm (T) x 46mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Hardlex front and back |
| Dial | Blue, black, yellow, orange |
| Strap | Black silicone, steel pin buckle (SRPL87, SRPL89) Three-link steel bracelet, security folding clasp (SRPL83, SRPL85) |
| Movement | 4R36, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 41 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, day, date, unidirectional diving bezel |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | A$650, €400 (strap) A$695, €440 (bracelet) |