The new 38mm, no date Breguet Type XX Chronographs are a purist collector’s dream
Zach BlassFor better or worse, Breguet is a brand that has refused to indulge in hype culture, dedicating the entire 250 years of its existence to pure, traditional horology. Regardless, any watch enthusiast worth their salt has been rooting for Breguet. Lately, though very much alive and well, Breguet hasn’t been keeping up with the rapidly evolving release cycle most other brands now adhere to, rather focusing on traditional, dressy watches showcasing a high degree of hand-crafted elements. In a market that has an eye for daily wearable sports watches, that’s not easy. Understandably, then, Breguet made a splash upon the re-introduction of the Type XX and Type 20 into the catalogue. At least within the collecting community, there was a sizeable contingent that could not fully get behind the larger, 42mm case size and highly contentious 4:30-positioned date window. Well, that will no longer be an issue. Hot on the heels of two 250th anniversary editions – the Classique Souscription and Tradition in 18k Breguet gold – now it’s the turn of the Breguet Type XX Chronographe with two new references, a new 38mm case size, and a no-date dial.
The case
Fun fact: 2025 marks the 70th anniversary of the first solid gold Type XX chronograph, so these watches actually celebrate two anniversaries. But for the first time ever in any generation of the Type XX, we now have it in 18k Breguet gold. Comprised of gold enriched with silver, copper, and palladium, Breguet gold ultimately nets a warm tone that feels like aged yellow gold, rather than a new hue like rose gold.
At 38.3mm in diameter, the case now is precisely the modern sweet spot for a mid-size sports watch, and presumably has a smaller lug-to-lug length that will better suit more wrists. It is also approximately 1mm thinner, with a 13.1mm case thickness that is likely due to the new configuration of the 728 calibre inside, which we will dig into in a little bit. In its scale down from 42mm to 38.3mm, it’s also worth noting that the depth rating has been reduced in half to 50 metres.
Framing the dials, each watch has a 12-hour scale on its bi-directional rotating bezel, but they each have different colour fillings. The black dial sports matching black numerals, while the limited edition has them in blue to match the accents of the dial. There are no clicks in the bezel rotation, instead a smooth turn with some friction resistance to ensure it does not rotate by accident.
The dials
Like the gold Type XX and its ceramic bezel, both of the new 38mm Type XX Chronographes have an applied logo at the 12 o’clock position, and both have elements of fauxtina. But that is where the front-facing similarities end. There are two configurations, one of which, seen above, is the limited-edition model with a silver 925 dial that is vertically brushed, has Breguet gold applied indices and numerals, and blue accents for the dial and counter text. In comparison, the anthracite aluminium variant swaps the 30-minute counter of the silver for an oversized, vintage-reminiscent 15-minute totaliser. Also true to its source of inspiration, it sports a fully printed dial (with the exception of that Breguet logo), and it eschews the tachymeter scale unlike the silver-dialled watch.
While the black feels very Type XX, for the casual Breguet fan, the limited edition’s dial may seem a bit out of left field. Nothing, however, is random with these. On the black dial, a discreet “Al” marking between 7 and 8 reveals that it’s made of aluminium, chosen in tribute to Louis Breguet who pioneered the use of Duralumin, an alloy comprised of 95% aluminium sheet metal for his aircraft. To bring the dials as close as possible to the original’s black, the aluminium has been anodised to give it its rich black colour.
The silver 925 dial of the limited edition also has a secret signature of sorts, also denoting its material between the 7 and 8 o’clock hour indexes. According to Breguet, this dial’s source of inspiration is the historic No. 1780 timepiece, “this time as it was originally produced: with a silver dial.” While the dial design itself is different, the tribute is fitting considering the No. 1780 was also cased in gold. I must confess that isn’t a watch I was familiar with, but the ultimate result is a more casual foil to the militaristic black dial.
The straps
The limited edition model of the 38mm Type XX Chronographe fittingly has a bold, blue gradient calf leather strap, pairing nicely with the blue touches on the dial.
The regular-production model is paired with a gradient black leather strap that looks almost subtly tropicalised, with gold-coloured stitching that matches the hue of the case nicely.
Both straps have interchangeable, quick-release tabs on their undersides, and their 18k Breguet gold pin buckle fasteners are well-secured with screwed bars. So, should you quickly release the strap from the case, you will need to unscrew the bar securing the pin buckle first in order to transfer it to another strap.
The movement
The thinner case can be attributed to the manually wound variant of its 728 calibre introduced back in 2023, when this latest generation of Type XX first debuted. Exhibited inside the limited edition model is the calibre 7278, while the regular-production variant gets the 7279, with the only difference between them being the minute totalisers. They both sport a 5Hz beat rate, flyback functionality, column wheels, and 60-hour power reserves.
Gilded in Breguet gold and beautifully hand-engraved, the absence of a winding rotor is more true to the original Type XX, also affording a less-obstructed view of the movement. Breguet seized the opportunity to make the most of the significant bridge real estate by hand-engraving it with a motif of the Breguet 19 aircraft, its route, and the European and North American coastlines, tributing the first transatlantic flight from Paris to New York.
The verdict
Jumping to the end, I love both of these watches. Holding them side-by-side, I couldn’t decide which I like more, but I know I would gladly wear and own either. The smaller 38mm case, the attractive hue of Breguet gold, the well-balanced, dateless dials and their distinct expressions, and the stunning hand-engraved movements all speak to me. Having said that, the US$40,000+ price tag grounds my budget aeroplane quickly. At this price point, Breguet is positioning its 38mm Type XX Chronographes very aspirationally, stacking them against stiff competition.
The 250-piece limited edition model will likely have little trouble selling through, as there are definitely 250 Breguet devotees that will feel like they must have one in their collection. I also suspect that the black dial, though not exactly limited, will not be produced in high quantities annually. Ultimately, Breguet is doing an excellent job of late at debuting watches that are exciting at the very least from a perspective of appreciating their existence. But I am curious to see if and how Breguet seeks to present new products that, despite still being high-end and expensive, are more approachable in price so that more Breguet fans can join in on the fun.
Breguet Type XX Chronographe 38mm pricing and availability
Both of the Breguet Type XX Chronographe 38mm models are now available for purchase. Price: US$43,500 (black dial, regular production), US$45,200 (silver dial, 250-piece LE)
| Brand | Breguet |
| Model | Type XX Chronographe |
| Reference | 2075BH/99/398 (black dial) 2075BH/G9/398 (silver dial) |
| Case Dimensions | 38.3mm (D) x 13.1mm (T) |
| Case Material | 18k Breguet gold |
| Water Resistance | 50 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Silver 925 Black anodised aluminium |
| Strap | Gradient black calfskin, Breguet gold pin buckle, (black dial) Gradient blue calfskin, Breguet gold pin buckle (silver dial) |
| Movement | Calibre 7278, in-house, high-beat, automatic (silver dial) Calibre 7279, in-house, high-beat automatic (black dial) |
| Power Reserve | 60 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds, flyback chronograph |
| Availability | Silver dial limited to 250 pieces Black dial is regular production |
| Price | US$43,500 (black dial) US$45,200 (silver dial) |