The Monceau Model 01 gives a defunct brand a new lease on life
Borna BošnjakThe news of a loved-but-lost watch brand being brought back to life is not an uncommon sight in the watch industry. Whether that’s large conglomerates like Breitling buying the Universal Genève and Gallet brands, or independents like Guillaume Laidet picking and choosing cult classics like Nivada Grenchen and Excelsior Park, it’s an easy way for the new owners to bring immediate legitimacy and recognition despite the period of dormancy. It is a double-edged sword, however. If you don’t do them justice, especially in the eyes of dedicated collectors, it can all go downhill pretty quickly.
A safer, but certainly more difficult alternative, is to try and revive a relatively unknown brand. Not only will it be easier to influence future designs, it’ll also generate intrigue among the collecting community, who will be eager to know more. That’s the path Simon Ryan is taking – likely better-known by his online moniker Escapement24 – as he re-launches Monceau with the new Model 01.
The dial
Unlike most of the vintage examples you’ll come across, the Model 01 is not a chronograph. Instead, Ryan opted for a simple, three-hander with date layout atop a dimensional, wave dial. The obelisque handset is quite simple, with the seconds hand getting a low-poly, octagonal tip. The real treat on the dial for me, though, is the solid blocks of lume used for the indices. For a versatile sports watch, it’s a great way of ensuring the dial will stay legible after dark, without compromising on look, and I’m glad to see more and more brands using them.
Also commendable is that Ryan didn’t go overboard with text. A simple Monceau logo and text is front-and-centre at 12 (the minimalist in me would shrink the full name even more), with the water-resistance rating colour-matched to the baby blue highlights at 6. Of the four colour variants, the black and white are solid, while the grey and red also get a subtle smoked gradient towards the minute track.
The case
Though it’s been jumping around a bit, it seems like the ideal dimensions for a modern, integrated bracelet sports watch have pretty much settled around 39mm. Monceau matches that with the Model 01, combining it with a thickness of 10.2mm and lug-to-lug of 44.7mm. It’s the former dimension that’s particularly impressive, as the Model 01 doubles the usual 100-metre water-resistance rating we’re used to with this style of watch. The steel case is finished as you’d expect from a watch of this style, with brushing dominating its flat surfaces, highlighted by wide, polished facets.
The bracelet
Now, I did say allude to integrated bracelet watches in the last paragraph, but the Model 01 isn’t really a true example of one. Looking closely at the tops of the lugs, you’ll notice a cut line that unveils the shape of a removable end-link. Monceau is capitalising on this with the option of a leather strap at launch, but I do think that this model looks best on its bracelet, as the whole design seems to have been centred around this integrated aesthetic.
And as far as the bracelet goes, its H-link design gets a really wide, polished facet down the shoulder for a pretty cool look, finishing in a dive-style folding clasp. Despite not being as cohesive in design, this is my preferred type of clasp over a butterfly as it allows for micro-adjustment. Having said that, we’ve seen a few brands now bringing micro-adjustable butterfly clasps too, so I wouldn’t be offended if Monceau chose to upgrade in the next iteration.
The movement
Wanting to continue the lineage of those 1960s, manually-wound Valjoux chronographs, Ryan has chosen the Sellita SW210 to power the Model 01. The special/elaboré grade means a decent degree of industrial decoration – mainly Geneva stripes on the gear train bridge – and tighter accuracy standards as per Sellita’s guidelines. To be totally honest, I would’ve preferred this watch to be automatic, given that it’s a sports watch, though I do appreciate the thinness that is likely contributed to by the lack of a winding rotor. With a 42-hour power reserve and 4Hz beat rate, it’s a standard set of specs for an entry-level Swiss movement in 2025.
Monceau Model 01 pricing and availability
The Monceau Model 01 is launching on Kickstarter on the 30th of May, with the campaign ending on the 15th on June. Head to monceauwatches.com to sign up for priority updates ahead of the Model 01 launch as well as details of the early-bird discounts available when the Kickstarter campaign and pre-order window opens. Price: £599 (early bird, 48 hours after launch only), £679 (Kickstarter price, ~25% off RRP)
| Brand | Monceau |
| Model | Model 01 |
| Case Dimensions | 39mm (D) x 10.2mm (T) x 44.7mm (T) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 200 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Domed sapphire front |
| Dial | Black, white, grey, red |
| Lug Width | 21mm |
| Strap | Case-matching H-link bracelet, folding clasp |
| Movement | Sellita SW210, manual wind |
| Power Reserve | 42 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date |
| Availability | 30th May 2025 |
| Price | £599 (early bird, 48 hours after launch only) £679 (Kickstarter price, ~25% off RRP) |
Made in partnership with Monceau. However, the opinions expressed in this article are our own in accordance with our Editorial Policy.