Our favourite Longines watches of 2024

Pietro Pilla

Longines holds a significant spot in the range of luxury watch offerings, it’s the right balance between a long and rich history, great products and value for money. In the past 12 months, it really put its foot on the gas, giving us a wide variety from sports models to more elegant watches, this year the Swiss Maison really had us covered with style in every possible circumstance. They even decided to drop a surprise hit at the end of the year, with what could have been the brand’s strongest release recently, but we will get to that later.

Longines Master Engraved 34mm

These particular dial variations were introduced in the Master Collection in 2022 to mark the 190^th anniversary of the company. When it first came out it was first housed in a 40mm case and, while the proportions were great, it was probably too big for the kind of watch it was supposed to be due to the delicately engraved Breguet numerals.

Then, there was a second introduction in a more compact 38.5mm case the following year and in 2024 we finally got this 34mm, available both in steel and two-tone cases. While it was probably meant for a more female audience, having handled all three sizes, I’d say this is the one I prefer. The grained, engraved dial is stunning in all the variations but the way the movement fills the 34mm case and the side profile is slightly thinner make all the difference for me. Price: US$2,425

Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase

Let’s enter another realm that has been a staple in the Longines offering. With the broad variety it recently offered maybe my preference staggered a little, but the dressier side of the brand has always been my favourite. The only issue I have with it is that it was pretty conservative with colours (aside from special editions).

When I first received the press release of these Moonphase models I was surprised but extremely glad they went for these particular colourways. And it’s not just about the colours but more importantly about the way they rendered them on the dials. The deep sunburst finish in green, brown, and grey brings the whole piece to life with a shimmering effect happening when you twirl the watch around. The enamelled medallion on the back is just another little detail showing the brand’s level of consideration. Price: US$3,050

Longines Legend Diver

This is not a new model and not a new size. It was though an introduction of new colourways in an otherwise very traditional collection for the brand. The Legend Diver has been around since 1959 but it was offered mostly in black or blue tones. This year the collection expanded its horizons and it added a terracotta, a green and an anthracite-toned dial. In 2023 we received an additional 39mm case dimension between the 42 and 36mm and that, together with the additional colourways, certainly adds real depth to the collection.

Then throw in a COSC movement and a beads of rice bracelet for the right amount of vintage feel and you’ve got the perfect combination of history and modern looks. When something works there’s no need to change it, and this is proof of that. Price: US$3,400

Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium

Longines had a huge role in GMT (or Zulu Time) watch history and with this last model, it looks like the brand has no intentions of leaving that space. When in 2022 it introduced a GMT addition to the Spirit collection, everyone wondered how they could improve an already great model. Well, they did improve it in 2023 with a more ergonomic 39mm case size but they were not done. This year they introduced the titanium version of that very 39mm case, resulting in one of the most successful watches of the year (or at least in the GMT category). Not only was the case spot on, but also the dial design, with the right amount of details and with vintage touches that didn’t overpower but added to the character.

This is a perfect watch for what it is. This doesn’t mean it’s a perfect watch for everyone but if you are looking for a true GMT with a strong identity look no further, this got you covered. Price: US$4,275

Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon

Finishing with the most recent (and daring) release of this selection. In 2022 the first re-release of this 1968 model came out and it was a success. Just before the end of the year we got an addition to this new collection with a carbon and titanium case, a first for Longines. The brand took everything that worked with the previous model and added the modern twist it lacked. For those who were to ask about the water resistance, yes, it’s still 300 meters (while being 80 grams lighter).

Now, it’s pretty obvious it’s not a watch for everyone, but the job it is meant to do, it gets done perfectly. The stealthy and futuristic look of the carbon makes it keep up with the times, as the original model did in the 60s. Price: US$4,900