The Time+Tide Team picks their favourite LVMH Watch Week 2025 releases

Time+Tide

LVMH Watch Week may not bring as many releases as Watches & Wonders or Geneva Watch Days, but as the biggest luxury goods company in the world, LVMH provides quality over quantity. With fewer watches to choose from, it can be a struggle to pick a favourite, but each release has a different meaning for all of the brands, and we all came to a consensus within a minute of discussion. From fun new colours to impressive feats of horological engineering, here are our favourite watches from LVMH Watch Week 2025.

Borna’s pick: Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence

I’ll be perfectly honest, without seeing the watches, my pick would undoubtedly go to the Roth, simply because of my personal preference for smaller watches, and Daniel Roth in general. But when I saw the early images of the Tambour Convergence, I knew it would be special simply for one selfish reason – it’s the first Louis Vuitton-branded watch since the LFT revival that I could actually see myself wearing. Now, don’t get me wrong, I respect the brand’s crazy automata and plique-à-jour enamel work, but they’re not watches that speak to me aesthetically. At 37mm in diameter and just 8mm thick, it’s an ideal size for my liking, and also offers another take on the montre à guichet look that is seldom seen today. Even though there’s no dial to speak of, the case’s finishing is of a high standard, as the lugs are attached to the case separately to allow for the intricate, scalloped finish.

The new LFT MA01.01 movement is also an exciting development, hinting at a move away from Le Cercle des Horlogers-supplied calibres that I’m hoping expands into the entire Tambour collection, though if I had one single nitpick, I’d say that making this a true jump hour would make it irresistible (though potentially impossible to execute in an 8mm thick case). As it is, I at least have some excuse for not buying it, other than simply not having enough kidneys to spare.

Russell’s pick: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription

It was incredibly hard for me to choose between this new Daniel Roth and the watch Borna went for. In fact, I think we both had the same agonising choice given that we share a real appreciation for both of these pieces. But for me, the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription ticks all the boxes you want from a re-release. The spirit of the original has been kept true, while getting ever so slightly updated. Borna was right when he laid a lot of the praise for this at the feet of Louis Vuitton and La Fabrique Du Temps, but I would like to add a mention for Jean Arnault, one of the youngest leaders we have in our industry. He has an excellent understanding of the period of watchmaking that saw the birth of the original Daniel Roth brand and is clearly well-attuned to make this ring true with the brand values Roth himself founded the company upon.

Another reason that I just can’t get past this watch is that my innate love for small, thin, elegant dress watches, and this ticks all of those boxes, and then some. With it being a limited run of 20, like the Tourbillon Souscription was, it will make this one hard to come by, though LFT does make mention of a standard-production variant, again likely echoing the Tourbillon in a different colour of gold. I also highly respect the concept of a Souscription watch, offering those who believe in the vision of a brand early entry (normally at a reduced rate) to help get it off the ground. This is something the likes of Breguet and F.P. Journe did, and seeing Arnault follow suit shows how much he has been paying attention, though here it’s more so in spirit than actually helping LVMH raise funds.

Zach’s pick: Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 42mm

While Hublot’s other creations for LVMH Watch Week are nice, such as the ceramic colour refresh within the Spirit of Big Bang line, for me the Big Bang Meca-10 42mm is outstanding. While I get that a Big Bang, a watch with the word big in its name, has an excuse to be larger and that Hublot has had little issue amassing a loyal following that enjoys larger watches, it is a nice evolution for the brand to make the effort to offer what has previously been reserved for its bigger pieces. The new HUB1250 calibre brings a 10-day hand-wound movement to a more approachable 42mm case – that alone is worth a round of applause. But, despite me being team #tinywrist and always going out of my way to celebrate novelties that make things more compact, the most exciting part of this new trio is not the size evolution.

While the brand does not require defending, within the niche watch community, Hublot has had to endure a bit of a double standard – guilty until proven innocent, the Nico-devout waiting at their keyboards ready to pounce and nitpick without measured thought at every release. In recent years, I have often pointed out how Hublot, while by no means making affordable watches for the majority, has often positioned its watches very fairly. The brand is a master of materials, pioneering coloured ceramics like the Big Bang Unico Orange, and yet its ceramic watches are often a fraction of the cost that hypebeast ceramic watches ask at retail.

The value proposition I find in this Meca-10, and what excites me most about this release and possible future releases, is that this HUB1250 movement, unlike the Meca-10 calibre in the original 45mm model, is hand-finished. The movement finishing is very noticeable in its elevation, richly brushed on the top of the bridges and handsomely bevelled on its edges. Yet, the price has not increased – the pricing starts at US$23,000 for titanium. So, you are basically getting the hand-finishing for free in the context of Hublot’s previous offerings and price positions.

When I spoke with Julien Tornare, CEO of Hublot, at the LVMH Watch Week exhibition in New York City, he made a point of saying that he will aim to incorporate such a level of finish in more watches (although not all watches) and is comfortable with decreasing the brand’s margins, where possible, in order to deliver higher quality and increase brand perception without raising the price. Mark my words, Hublot is the brand to watch over the next five years. And for the record, sign me up for the Meca-10 42mm in carbon – I would make that a daily wearer in a heartbeat.

Jamie’s pick: TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Purple

While like Zach, I’m a big fan of the Big Bang Meca-10 42mm, especially in carbon fibre, the new limited-edition Carrera Chronograph with a smokey purple dial has snuck up on me as my favourite LVMH Watch Week 2025 release. I must admit, I’m a sucker for the Carrera Glassbox design in general, but I’ve always thought its mainline blue and black dials were a little unspectacular. But this deep, eggplant-like, sultry purple? This might just be a new dial colour, but it suits the Glassbox so well.

Purple has never been one of my favourite colours, but there’s something debonair about this shade in particular – it’s almost black at some angles, with a much more subtle sunburst than the limited-edition purple-dial Monaco that dropped in 2022 (even though the Monaco is this purple tone’s raison d’être, as it was initially designed to emulate the way Monaco ref. 1113Bs went tropical). It begs the question: why don’t more watchmakers experiment with purple dials? Push the boat out, I say.

Buffy’s pick: Gérald Genta Gentissimo Oursin Fire Opal

I’ve always been a bit confused by the legacy left by Gérald Genta, as the designs he’s so often associated with are rarely reflected by either of the brands that actually use his name. That’s still very much the case with the new Gérald Genta Gentissimo Oursin Fire Opal, as there’s no hint of an integrated bracelet sports watch here, but it just ticks so many of my boxes. Yellow gold? Check. Stone dial? Check. A frankly crazy case design that many collectors would find fugly? Check, and then some.

The Gentissima Oursin has a case inspired by the skeleton of a sea urchin, maintaining the marine theme that Genta was fond of. But screwing 137 fire opal beads into the case is the perfect mix of genius and madness, infusing the watch with a hypnotising play of colour within the orange opal. Complementing those fire opal beads is the carnelian dial, doubling down on the gemstone use. Fuego.