We get hands on with two Tambour Taiko Spin Time models from Louis Vuitton
Russell SheldrakeLVMH Watch Week 2025 feels like a lifetime ago, now that we are approaching Watches and Wonders Geneva at light speed. But one release from Louis Vuitton that really caught my eye was the reintroduction of the Spin Time complication. It has been in their catalogue since 2009, but ever since the relaunch of the Tambour back in 2023, Louis Vuitton (in partnership with La Fabrique du Temps) has been showing the watch world exactly what a “fashion house” is capable of. So when they announced a new look and calibre for the Spin Time, I was intrigued: after all, the new Tambour was my watch of the year in 2023 which led to me getting hold of the blue dial/stainless steel version and comparing it with Andrew and his chocolate dial/rose gold model for a week on the wrist.
This time around, I managed to get hold of two of the four new Tambour Taiko Spin Time models – namely the standard 39.5mm version and the horologically wonderful flying tourbillon – to see if Louis Vuitton has managed to pull it off again. Getting to experience both case sizes for this new family of watches, and both ends of the price spectrum, was a great opportunity – here’s my thoughts.
The dials
The Spin Time’s dial has captivated me from the day I first saw the press release. These new examples are an education in reduction, stripping everything right back to the basics in the most elevated way possible. Starting with the solid dial 39.5mm Tambour Taiko Spin Time, the small central dial has a singular minute hand running from its middle, and a sunray brush following it, with a minimal, pad-printed “Louis Vuitton, Paris” logomark. It is also possible to get this central section in Hawk’s Eye on the diamond-encrusted version. We move out from there to a reduced minute track and subtle (almost defunct) applied hour markers which all make way for the star of the show: the twelve rotating hour cubes. These cubes are surrounded by a solid, monochrome ‘dolphin grey’ dial, allowing the silver cubes to better stand out and allow for easier time reading.
Switching over to the Flying Tourbillon, the only part of the dial that really stays consistent in the minute track and the spinning cubes – everything else gets adapted here. In the middle, we get a 60-second flying tourbillon with an LV flower motif cage. This is an incredibly tall component, spanning almost the entire height of the movement. But we will talk more about that later in this review. Once we move outside of the tourbillon well, we find a rotating ring with a white minute hand attached that is read from the reduced minute track surrounding it. And then, the dial suddenly stops, as the 12 cubes protrude out, seemingly floating above the wrist when worn. These cubes are slightly competing for your attention with the tourbillon in the centre, but given that one of them is far more functional in terms of time telling than the other, they don’t compete when it comes to admiration.
The cases
The cases here are pretty much the same, beyond being different sizes (39.5mm and 42.5mm), different water resistances (100m vs 50m), and one boasts a display caseback while the other is closed. So let’s focus on the commonalities here. Perhaps the most impressive part of these cases is the lugs. They’re produced separately to the case and screwed in, which means that they can be finished to a much higher level of complexity than a standard lug. Here we see a concave surface that has been laser finished to a satisfying matte texture that mirrors that used on the thin bezel, while the rest of the lug is given a high polish that allows its curved surface to play with the light wonderfully.
These white gold cases certainly carry the weight of the precious metal well, with the solid caseback version having a great feel on the wrist. While the transparency of the Flying Tourbillon almost makes the case disappear when on your wrist, the thin bezel with the 12 letters of Louis Vuitton spelt out in relief is really the only discernible detail of note here.
The movements
The base of both of these movements is essentially the same, but a lot has had to be reworked to accommodate the flying tourbillon. The LFT ST13.01 acts as the base calibre through the entire range: a refreshed version of the movement developed by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini in 2007 who were at the time running BNB Concept and now head up La Fabrique du Temps. It was made specifically for Louis Vuitton, and now Navas and Barbaisni have improved on their original design. Not only do two cubes jump instantaneously, but they can now be set forward or backwards thanks to further safety precautions being built in.
To create space for the flying tourbillon, the entire movement works had to be shifted to the perimeter of the base plate, and all this while only adding 1.72mm to the overall thickness of the calibre. While both the standard LFT ST13.01 and LFT ST05.01 are fully automatic with full rose gold rotors, they are limited to just 45 hours of power reserve. But they are incredibly small movements and building bigger power reserves into them would require a dramatic shift in dimensions. The instantaneous jumping of the cubes is achieved by Maltese cross gears being actuated at the end of each cube’s stem through an intricate jumping hour system that remains hidden on both of these models, but it would be great to get a view of it in a skeletonised version further down the line.
The straps
The smaller, time-only Tambour Taiko Spin Time comes on an integrated rubber strap with an LV texture throughout. This rubber strap might be one of the comfiest I’ve tried on and there is something oddly reassuring about having a pin buckle on this option, rather than an overcomplicated deployant. The Flying Tourbillon comes on an extremely subtle calf leather strap in beige, again with a white gold pin buckle. The rubber strap makes the standard model feel far closer to the sporty standard Tambour, while the leather strap gives a dressier vibe that makes this lugged Tambour model feel closer to the new Escale.
The verdict
It’s clear from this latest step from Louis Vuitton and La Fabrique du Temps that this duo are set to compete with the big box brands when it comes to design and watchmaking prowess. While the relaunched Tambour line is still devoid of complications, the Taiko Spin Time models are clearly the playground of LFT, allowing the watchmakers there to display their excellence to an industry and customer base where they are still considered relative newcomers.
It’s a risk to release such expensive watches at a time when purse strings appear to be being drawn tight and so I consider it a brave move by Jean Arnault and his team to bring these watches out when they have. (Editor’s note: think these are bad? What about the new €550,000 Louis Vuitton x Kari Voutilainen LVKV-02 GMR 6?) There could have been more commercially viable options available to them, but they have instead opted to make a statement of intent with these releases that show the strength of the Tambour case shape, and the breadth of their watchmakers’ abilities. All that said, I would still take the simple, time only, 39.5mm Spin Time over the rest of the collection for its pure wearability, and dressy-sports aesthetic.
Louis Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time and Taiko Spin Time Air Flying Tourbillon pricing and availability
Both the Lois Vuitton Tambour Taiko Spin Time and Tambour Taiko Spin Time Air Flying Tourbillon are limited to 150 pieces each. Price: US$72,500 (Taiko Spin Time), US$172,000 (Taiko Spin Time Air Flying Tourbillon)
| Brand | Louis Vuitton | |
| Model | Tambour Taiko Spin Time | Tambour Taiko Spin Time Air Flying Tourbillon |
| Case Dimensions | 39.5mm (D) x 12.15mm (T) | 40.5mm (D) x 12.45mm (T) |
| Case Material | White gold | |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres | 50 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Dolphin grey | Dolphin grey, skeletonised |
| Strap | Integrated rubber, white gold pin buckle | Beige calf leather, white gold pin buckle |
| Movement | Calibre LFT ST13.01, in-house, automatic | Calibre LFT ST03.01, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 45 hours | |
| Functions | Spin time jumping hours, minutes | Spin time jumping hours, minutes, flying tourbillon |
| Availability | Limited edition of 150 pieces | |
| Price | US$72,500 | US$172,000 |