The Hermès Cut and Arceau Le Temps Suspendu make you the boss of time
Buffy Acacia- New references of the Hèrmes Cut and Arceau collections use complications to pause their time displays as the movement keeps running.
- The Hèrmes Cut has a small seconds hand which runs backwards at one cycle every 24 seconds, while the Arceau has a retrograde date hand that hides.
- Both movements are manufactured by Vaucher and have a 45-hour power reserve with a 4Hz beat rate.
When there’s a dial which doesn’t show the time in a clear manner, or one which prioritises a fun complication, I often ask about the necessity of time and whether or not checking your watch actually matters. Hermès goes a step further and leads us to wonder if knowing the time can actually be harmful to our psyches. The aim of Le Temps Suspendu is to disrupt our perception of time and create a sense of relief, allowing the watch to be a symbol of freedom rather than a dictator of stress, deadlines, and a march towards that point when time stops for all of us. Assuming that concept isn’t too dark, the new Hèrmes Cut and Arceau models approach it with beauty and optimism.
Some would turn their noses up at philosophising over what is essentially a useless complication, but I would argue that every luxury watch is an exercise in philosophy. A luxury, by definition, is not an essential, so you must justify its presence in your life through thought. For full clarity, Le Temps Suspendu is a complication and ethos original to Hèrmes, which completely prevents you from being able to read the time when a pusher has been activated. The hands flick up to rest on either side of the 12 o’clock marker, and on the Arceau model, the retrograde date hand is whisked away behind a raised platform. It’s kind of like playing peek-a-boo with the time, but you’re ultimately in charge of when it’s visible. The movement keeps time while it’s in the suspended mode, so it will still be accurate when you decide to see it again.
What’s most interesting about both the Cut and Arceau releases is how different they are while utilising the same concept. The new Arceau leans into the mystery with that hiding retrograde date hand, and the tinted sapphire sector reveals a taste of the movement below. Its dark blue colouration varies greatly across its surfaces from the grain of the date area to the sunburst brushing beneath the hour marker printing. Gold dots and the 18k rose gold case reiterate its luxury status, as well as offer a warm contrast to the cool blue tones. There are also delectable versions in white gold with a deep wine red or brown gold dial, and at 42mm, it holds powerful wrist presence for such a sophisticated watch.
On the other hand, the 39mm Hèrmes Cut is a much daintier watch even in character. The cushion case only has small lugs where it transitions into an integrated rubber bracelet, and the off-white dial feels clean without feeling clinical. There’s a red dial variant again, which seems much more fueled with passion. The bold outlines of the Arabic numerals and the skeletonised hands impart an entirely contemporary feeling, and the option to have a diamond-set bezel with a matching gold bracelet introduces a high jewellery element. Most captivating is the small seconds subdial, gleaming above a brighter white surface with sunburst finishing, as the hand travels backwards at one rotation every 24 seconds. That seconds hand runs perpetually whether your time display is halted or not, continuing to unbalance your sense of time. Both of the new Le Temps Suspendu watches have power reserves of 45 hours with a 4Hz beat rate, with movements manufactured by Vaucher.
The Hermès Cut and Arceau Le Temps Suspendu price and availability
The Hermès Cut and Arceau Le Temps Suspendu are now available. Price: €28,000 (Cut on rubber, ~US$31,870) / €33,000 (Arceau rose gold, ~US$37,560) / €38,000 (Arceau rose gold, ~US$43,250) / €43,000 (Cut on gold bracelet, ~US$48,950)
| Brand | Hermès |
| Model | Cut Arceau |
| Case Dimensions | 39mm (D) (Cut) 42mm (D) (Arceau) |
| Case material | 18k rose gold (Cut) 18k white or rose gold (Arceau) |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres (Cut) 50 metres (Arceau) |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | White or red (Cut) Brown, blue, or red (Arceau) |
| Strap | Rubber strap or gold bracelet (Cut) Alligator or calfskin leather strap (Arceau) |
| Movement | H1912, Vaucher, automatic H1837, Vaucher, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 45 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, backwards small seconds, time stop (Cut) Hours, minutes, retrograde date, time stop (Arceau) |
| Availability | Available now |
| Price | €28,000 (Cut on rubber, ~US$31,870) €33,000 (Arceau rose gold, ~US$37,560) €38,000 (Arceau rose gold, ~US$43,250) €43,000 (Cut on gold bracelet, ~US$48,950) |