IWC take a trunk show of high horology masterpieces on the road across the UK
Russell SheldrakeIWC is not a brand that many will necessarily instantly associate with the most complex forms of watchmaking. However, the brand’s perpetual calendars (especially its record-breaking Eternal Calendar) and tourbillons are some of the best in the industry and show off the very best of the Schaffhausen manufacture’s capabilities. While these pieces may get overshadowed by more popular Ingenieur or Pilot’s Watches models, they are no less impressive and deserve more attention than we currently give them.
Thankfully, IWC has curated a travelling trunk show of some of their most complex high horology pieces, which includes everything from perpetual calendar chronographs to sidereal time-keepers, for watch enthusiasts in the UK. There’s truly something for everyone here, and every facet of complex watchmaking is on display. The trunk show is currently on display at the brand’s London flagship boutique on Bond St where it will stay until 28th July, and then it moves on to Battersea Power Station from the 31st July to the 4th August. Next is Harrods from 7th – 11th August, and then its final stop in the UK will be IWC’s newest boutique that is about to open in Edinburgh from 14th – 18th August. After this trip around the UK, is it ready to head off to Japan.
I got a chance to see the trunk show for myself, so let’s get into what you can expect if you drop by. Of course, the star of last year’s Watches and Wonders (not to mention the GPHG) was there: the Portugieser Eternal Calendar. A rare bird, this watch speaks for itself, and we certainly spoke a lot about it last year as it ranked among one of our favourite watches of the year. That said, getting to handle this watch again in this lineup placed it in its true context as a crowning jewel of IWC’s dedication to complications.
We also had a few watches that are hardly seen out in the wild, like these two Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber models. The most eye-catching of the two is the piece created for Mercedes F1 boss Toto Wolff with its striking Petronas green colouring and luminous ceramic inserts. (If you haven’t already, discover the full story of how this watch was created in our recent podcast with IWC CEO Chris Granger-Herr.) This collaborative watch was paired with the Shock Absorber Tourbillon Skeleton XPL that takes the concept of this tough timer to another level by adding a whirling tourbillon to the mix.
Next up, we’ve got the blue ceramic Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Le Petit Prince, a deceptively elegant automatic watch that has a wonderfully balanced dial with the cheerful addition of Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s Little Prince character on the moonphase and winding rotor. The acres of blue and gold here are appropriately royal, with the dial and strap matching the evocative blue ceramic case.
Without a doubt, the star of the show was this Portugieser Siderale Scafusia. This is an exemplary piece that demonstrates what is possible with IWC’s Siderale programme, which allows clients to fully customise their watch. This incredibly intricate complication was introduced by the brand back in 2014 and is now offered to clients who are after something entirely bespoke. To acquire this special piece, you have to travel to Schaffhausen and join the head of product development as you go through the myriad of options available to you as you design your own Siderale. Turn the watch over, and you have a view of how the constellations look over your chosen location: an intricate and personal touch that you do not find everywhere.
If you want to take a look and get hands-on with these and more rare pieces, talk to your local SA or click here and sign up. Be sure to savour it, as it will likely be the last time you get to handle any of these pieces… Have a great weekend!
Russell and the Time+Tide Team
Watch meme of the week: kiss cam or wrist shot?
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All we need is our watches, right?
Wrist shot of the week: all that glitters isn’t gold
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If you’ve been following Ben at Watch Brothers London like I have for a while now, you will know that he gets some very special pieces through his store and hardly ever seems to stock the ordinary. This Vacheron Constantin Overseas is proof of that, with its rather special diamond bezel and some wonderful patina that shows that this watch has seen some things (and I like to imagine a good party or two!)
Time+Tide Shop pick of the week: Dennison Capsule Collection “Dunes in Salmon”
A distinguished revival of their classic cushion case, Dennison’s first Capsule Collection, named “Dunes in Salmon”, reimagines 1960s elegance through a modern lens. Opting for something other than their previously seen natural stone or wood numbers, this model’s dial features a bold embossed pattern inspired by shifting sand dunes, finished in a vintage salmon tone. The texture catches the light with gentle movement, evoking the quiet beauty of desert landscapes.
Discover the Dennison Capsule Collection “Dunes in Salmon” in our Time+Tide Watch Discovery Studios and in the Time+Tide Shop online. Price: A$1,250
Accessory of the month: Cased in Time Royale with Cheese Watch Case
Do you know what they call a Quarter Pounder with Cheese in Paris? Me neither, but I know what they call it at Cased in Time, and that’s a Royale with Cheese. That’s right, our favourite food-obsessed case makers are back with another tongue-in-cheek take on a popular fast food to bring us another high-calorie storage option for our watches. Open up the burger bun-looking outer hard shell to reveal lettuce and tomato-coloured foam cushion inserts and a yellow oversized polishing cloth for those all-important slices of American cheese. I’m getting hungry now…
The new Royal with Cheese cases from Cased in Time are now available in both our London and Melbourne Studios and online in the Time+Tide Shop. Price: A$54
Our favourite Time+Tide coverage of the week
On a tear: the British watch industry has grown 65% in 3 years
The Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers recently released its second bellwether report, and this time it has revealed just how the industry has grown since the first one in 2021 and given us some fantastic insights into the health of the industry. I was given exclusive access to the full report and wrote up a full breakdown and analysis of what it said. It’s a long read with stats and figures flying around all over the place, so grab your favourite drink and settle in.
PSA: stop forcing NATO straps on your dressy watches
Zach is a man of many strongly held opinions, and this week we let him vent about another one. This time, he goes in on those who pair a dress watch with a NATO strap. While juxtapositions are great in other areas of life, on the wrist, they just don’t work, if you ask him. A faux pas he can’t get behind, no matter the situation, I’ll let him tell you exactly why in his article here.
Zero West honour a WWII hero with a duo of Spitfire Escape models
Zero West is a company that prides itself on its tough timers that link back to the military, and two of its latest creations are inspired by an RAF pilot who took part in the Great Escape. The S5e and S6e Spitfire Escape watches draw their inspiration from Flight Lieutenant Alastair ‘Sandy’ Gunn, who flew unarmed reconnaissance missions over occupied territory in his Spitfire armed with nothing but his camera. Shot down over Norway and later captured, Sandy took part in the famed mass escape attempt which would go on to inspire the iconic Steve McQueen film. To learn more about these two models, watch the above video or read the full review here.