The Atelier Wen Ancestra Jiāo goes all out with grand feu enamel, diamonds, and a high-end Pequignet movement
Borna BošnjakEver since their first model, a Kickstarter success, Atelier Wen has sought to deliver features usually seen on grail-level, unobtainable pieces to a price that more enthusiasts could comfortably afford. Though impressive, the success of the Perception doesn’t quite tell the full story of their creativity, but that changes today. Meet the Atelier Wen Ancestra Jiāo, whose name means scaly dragon, if my Chinese translation skills are up to par. A look at the dial reveals where the inspiration comes from, but, as has become the norm with Atelier Wen’s dials, there is more than meets the eye. Other than the intricate finishing, the fact that this Ancestra is a proposition in a market segment completely different from the Perception’s is clear from the choice of movement, too.
The dial
But before we get into that, let’s take a closer look at that dial. At first glance, there might seem like there’s a lot going on – and there is. The baguette-cut markers alternate with calligraphed (but printed) numbers by artist Elaine Wong, with an alternate style that is yet to be unveiled switching it up, with diamonds for the odd hours and Lee Yuen-Rapati-designed (of @onehourwatch fame) Western Arabic numerals for the even ones.
The backdrop of all this is a stunning round of grand feu-enamelled goodness. Made by Kong Lingjun’s workshops (the founder of Koncise, an enamel-first watch brand), the 925 silver blank is first hand-hammered, before undergoing the arduous process of grand feu enamelling. To make sure they didn’t have too easy a time doing it, in addition to the uneven surface, the Ancestra also sports a noticeable gradient going from a pale silver to a deep blue towards the dial’s edge. How difficult are they to make exactly? Well, Atelier Wen quotes a 50% failure rate, so that should paint a picture.
While that’s all well and good, I’ve left the best – or at least, my favourite – till last. The Ancestra’s hands are just gorgeous and surprisingly three-dimensional. Each sloping side is scalloped, transitioning to a frosted upper surface, coming together to form an elegant feuille shape, measuring pretty much double the thickness of regular watch hands to achieve this complex shape.
The case
Though there’s plenty going on with the dial, the added thickness hasn’t translated too badly onto the case. With a 38mm diameter and 46mm lug-to-lug, the dimensions are those of an ideal daily wearer. Add the very domed crystal into the equation, and the thickness sits at 11.3mm, which is just about as tall as I’d want a watch of this style to be.
Interestingly, Atelier Wen has given the Ancestra a screw-down crown and 100 metres of water-resistance, which does seem at odds with its complex and (dare I say) haute horlogerie hallmarks, but hey – you won’t see me complain about extra robustness. Speaking of the crown, it’s once again surprisingly intricate, with engravings surrounding its perimeter, and the Atelier Wen logo signed in blue.
The overall design was very much thought out to mitigate any perceptions of overbearing thickness (see what I did there?) with a convex bezel that steps down to the lugs, which are the outstanding feature of the case. Created as separate pieces, they screw into the case flanks with visible, polished bolts bearing a “回纹” motif, and also make for precise transitions between the alternately finished surfaces. Similar to some Perception models, the Ancestra is cased in 904L stainless steel, so expect those polished bevels and bezels to really shine. The top-down shape is reminiscent of a more modern cornes de vache style, reminding me specifically of the ones you’ll find on some of Andersen Geneve’s modern offerings.
The strap
As much as a good strap can completely change how a watch feels, a bad one can also make it that much worse. Thankfully, that’s not something you’ll have to worry about with the Ancestra. Not only is the included Epsom-patterned number a suitable stylistic choice that doesn’t steal thunder away from the dial, the watch’s 20mm lugs open you up to a world of secondary market options. If you do swap, however, you’ll want to make sure your new strap tapers to 16mm, as Atelier Wen has also paid close attention to their buckle design, with hand-polished bevels as highlights.
The movement
The big development for Atelier Wen, and one you’ll get to witness via the sapphire caseback, is the movement situation. The Perception made the most of the Dandong SL1588, but I’m not surprised that for a watch of this calibre (puns on fire today, aren’t they?), they chose to upgrade to the Pequignet EPM03. The calibre launched in 2021 as Pequignet’s third in-house movement, serving as the slimmer, less complicated foil to its flagship Calibre Royal. In Pequignet’s line-up, you’ll find it under the Calibre Initial moniker, featuring a patent for its Pellaton-like reverser in the automatic assembly.
The manufacture states that some 70% of components are sourced in France, with others being of Swiss origin, but for Atelier Wen’s purposes, the movement has been etched with an ancient Chinese manuscript dealing with the themes of creation, appropriate considering the watch’s name. Though machine-applied, such intricate engraving really is a striking way of decorating a movement, sitting surrounded by frosted surfaces of the main bridge. For the exposed ratchet wheel and balance cock, Atelier Wen chose a traditional black polish, while the open rotor is in gold, highlighted by the same engraved pattern you’ll find on the Ancestra’s dial.
The verdict
If you’re sitting pretty like Atelier Wen did, with every new, limited Perception model selling out in an insignificant amount of time, you’d be forgiven for sticking to your guns until something really special came along. The Ancestra feels like this one special thing, and it’s proof that the steadily increasing price of the Perception didn’t scare the brand leadership from stepping into a clearly very different bracket. Once again, Atelier Wen’s ability to put together a team of artisans and designers to create a mesmerising piece of design impresses – that dial really is a stand-out.
But most importantly, the Ancestra looks like it hasn’t really cut any noticeable corners, and that the creators’ visions were translated into the final product without much compromise. Sure, I could get on board with those saying the watch would’ve benefitted from 10mm or less in thickness – perhaps with a manual movement and less water resistance – but as far as a daily wearable watch goes, there’s little to moan about.
The choice of a Pequignet movement admittedly really surprised me. Pequignet’s COO placed it somewhere in between an entry-level Sellita and Vaucher’s VMF3002, but it’s hard to fully quantify, as it hasn’t really seen use outside of Pequignet’s own watches. Comparing the Ancestra to those, I’d say that even though it’s fighting with one hand tied behind its back, it’s a battle the Atelier Wen wins easily.
Atelier Wen Ancestra Jiāo pricing and availability
As of publishing, the Atelier Wen Ancestra Jiāo is available now, exclusively for a seven-day order window. Price: US$5,850
| Brand | Atelier Wen |
| Model | Ancestra Jiāo |
| Case Dimensions | 38mm (D) x 11.3mm (T) x 46mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | 904L stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres, screw-down crown |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial |
Hand-hammered silver, gradient grand feu enamel with baguette-cut diamonds
|
| Lug Width | 20mm |
| Strap | Leather strap, stainless steel pin buckle |
| Movement | Pequignet EPM03, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 65 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds |
| Availability | Limited to a 7-day order window |
| Price | US$5,850 |