The Chanel J12 X-Ray bares all of the brand’s watchmaking skill in full transparency
Zach Blass- Chanel launched a 12-piece limited edition J12 Bleu X-Ray at Watches and Wonders 2025.
- The 38mm case and its matching bracelet are in blue sapphire, with accents of black-coated 18k white gold, and set with blue sapphires.
- Over 1,600 hours of work are required to make (and gem-set) each watch from A to Z.
At Watches and Wonders, the throughline of Chanel’s many novelties was a signature blue colour. Most of the pieces were crafted in a distinct dark blue ceramic with a matte finish, but one stood apart with a case and bracelet almost entirely crafted in blue sapphire. This 12-piece limited edition is the Chanel J12 Bleu X-Ray. An exercise in full transparency, the watch itself appears as if you are looking at it through an X-ray machine – nothing is hidden, everything is visible. The case and bracelet are made from blocks of synthetic sapphire, set with 196 baguette-cut sapphires, with a brilliant-cut sapphire set into the crown.
The 38mm case may have the silhouette of a dive watch, but this is not a watch you should take beneath the waves, given its 30 metres of water-resistance. Despite the knurling found on the black-coated gold bezel, it’s not rotatable, acting strictly as a platform to house the 46 baguette-cut sapphires, amounting to approximately 5.61 carats, within it.
The dial is equally transparent as the case and bracelet, and thanks to the sapphire bridges of the Calibre 3.1, gives this intriguing illusion of a free-floating movement. The only things that are visible on the dial, aside from the working movement components, are the chapter ring and the 12 baguette-cut blue sapphires set on the sapphire crystal dial.
The manually wound calibre offers 55 hours of power reserve, but you may be wondering why Chanel opted for a manual movement rather than an automatic one. My assumption is that a rotor would obstruct the transparent view the dial offers, and its movement around the dial would interrupt the serene floating appearance of the calibre. Remember, this is more haute horlogerie art than a daily wearer, remixing a familiar dive silhouette as the J12 range has long been known to do.
With its entire spine crafted in blackened white gold, the bracelet continues the trend we see in the case, with the precious metal being used as a platform for the 138 baguette-cut sapphires. This centreline separates blue sapphire flanks, ending in a folding clasp made of the same black-coated white gold.
Watch enthusiasts may find it hard to digest the notion that Chanel, an iconic fashion brand, has the horological chops worthy of their admiration. But what such misguided individuals should keep in mind is that Chanel has been doing this for a while, with significant investment in watchmaking within its own brand and beyond. Chanel has a stake in movement manufacturer Kenissi, minority stakes in MB&F, F.P. Journe, and Romain Gauthier (helping develop some Chanel movements), and has acquired manufacturing houses like G&F Châtelain (well-known for its leaf-spring clasps used by Richard Mille). Chanel is all-in on proper watchmaking, bringing all the expertise required in-house, or at the very least into close orbit, to gather all the ingredients required to make top-notch watches.
Is the J12 Bleu X-Ray for everybody? No, it’s literally for 12 people, max. But in a watch market where consumers seem more and more interested in watches that depart from the norm but also have horological integrity, I firmly believe Chanel is a watchmaker to watch in the coming years.
Chanel J12 Bleu X-Ray pricing and availability
The Chanel J12 Bleu X-Ray is a limited edition of 12 pieces and is available now for enquiries. Price: on request
| Brand | Chanel |
| Model | J12 Bleu X-Ray |
| Reference | H10334 |
| Case Dimensions | 38mm (D) |
| Case Material | Blue sapphire, black-coated 18k white gold |
| Water Resistance | 50 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Blue, two open apertures |
| Strap | Blue ceramic bracelet, folding clasp |
| Movement | Calibre 5, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 42 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, flying tourbillon |
| Availability | Limited to 12 pieces |
| Price | On request |