Montblanc’s new limited edition 1858 Split Second Chronograph dresses in red as a homage to its Minerva roots
Tom Austin- Montblanc returns to flex its Minerva movement muscle with a new 1858 Split Second Chronograph.
- Paying homage to the fine chronographs from Minerva in the 1930s, this new variation comes in stainless steel with a white gold bezel and is limited to just 100 pieces.
- This classically styled chrono is dressed with a dark burgundy sunray dial with contrasting black subdials.
It has long been argued that if a watch brand is better known for making other things aside from wristwatches, then you’re probably right to question their horological proficiency. I can even be quoted as saying something along the lines of: “If the brand on your socks is the same as your watch, then we have a problem“. Still, even the firmest of rules have their anomalies, and lately, some brands are proving the statement very wrong. Montblanc are one such brand, and to continue proving me wrong, they’ve just released their latest vintage-inspired piece, the 1858 Split Second Chronograph.
You may associate Montblanc more with writing instruments and leather goods, but their watch game has been incrementally powering up over recent years, to the point where everyone should be taking note. Richemont-owned Montblanc received a horological boost in the mid-2000s when the group acquired Swiss watch manufacturer Minerva. Since then, Minerva’s influence has helped elevate the higher end of the Montblanc catalogue to a much greater level, with the brand now punching well above its horological weight.
Montblanc’s latest efforts are showcased in the 1858 Split Second Chronograph, a watch inspired by a 42mm Minerva military monopusher rattrapante chronograph from the 1930s. Looking at the watch initially, you would swear it’s a stunning vintage example, with a tightly fluted 18-karat white gold bezel framing the deep burgundy dial, staying true to the 30s aesthetic. The case proportions are anything but vintage, however, with the stainless steel case measuring 44mm in diameter and 15.2mm thick. Size aside, the design is elegant, featuring slim, curved lugs and lovingly polished edges that break up the satin brushing.
Its eye-catching red dial brings everything right back to the vintage era, with a deep burgundy sunray finish that makes the watch seem like it belongs in a room filled with mahogany wainscoting and rich leather chesterfields. It’s contrasted with bright white printed Arabic numerals, which, oddly, on a watch like this, are luminescent. The white contrasting continues with the minute tracks, subdials, dial text and tachymeter scale. The Breguet-style hands are rhodium-plated but don’t feature any lume at all, further deepening the mystery of the lumed dial. Overall, it results in a watch with excellent legibility, especially considering the dial is so large, as long as you’re reading it in daylight.
As I mentioned before, the watch is inspired by a vintage Minerva, and that inspiration runs deeper than just a name printed on the dial. Flip the watch over, and staring at you through the massive sapphire exhibition caseback is the utterly stunning Montblanc Manufacture Calibre MB M16.31, operated via the Montblanc logo-emblazoned pusher integrated into the crown, and a rectangular pusher at 2 o’clock for the split seconds.
This manually-wound chronograph is inspired by Minerva’s pocket watch calibre 19-09 CH from 1909, as well as its successor, the 17-29, developed in the 1930s. It features two column wheels, one for the chronograph and one for the split seconds, with horizontal coupling. Manufactured and hand-finished in the old Minerva factory in Villeret, it features a gold-plated going train, contrasting against silver plates and bridges. You’ll also notice the oversized balance wheel beating at a steady 18,000 vibrations per hour, a throwback to its pocket watch roots.
Finishing the watch is a dark burgundy-toned calf leather strap with alligator print, paired with a stainless steel triple-folding clasp with a fine adjustment system. Again, another modern touch which is nice to have, but not too in keeping with the traditional essence of the watch, which seems to be an ongoing theme here. The movement is indeed a showpiece, but the huge stainless steel case, the lack of precious metal everywhere except the bezel, and the dubious use of lume, combined with a hefty price tag make elements of this watch feel somewhat disjointed, it has to be said.
Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 100 Burgundy price and availability
The Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 100, as the name implies, is limited to 100 pieces, and is available now from Montblanc retailers. Price: £46,500
| Brand | Montblanc |
| Model | 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 100 |
| Reference | 134029 |
| Case Dimensions | 44mm (D) x 15.2mm (T) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel, 18K white gold fixed bezel |
| Water Resistance | 30 meters |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Dark burgundy sunray with gloss black subdials |
| Strap | Dark burgundy calf skin with alligator print, with triple folding stainless steel clasp, fine adjustment |
| Movement | Montblanc Manufacture Calibre MB M16.31, Minerva produced, manually-wound |
| Power Reserve | 50 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, split seconds chronograph |
| Availability | Limited to 100 pieces |
| Price | £46,500 |