Glashütte Original celebrates 180 years of Glashütte watchmaking with a stunning platinum PanoLunarTourbillon
Tom Austin- Glashütte Original has subtly expanded its flying tourbillon selection by introducing a variation with a platinum case and an incredible Galvanic rose “iron ore” dial.
- The special dial on the PanoLunarTourbillon is the first to be created in Glashütte Original’s new dial-making facility, the only one of its kind in the region.
- This new release marks 180 years of watchmaking in Glashütte, celebrating the innovative traditions and watchmaking techniques the German town is known for.
In 1845, the world was undergoing significant changes. Steam power was redrawing the map, telegrams were beginning to outpace letters, and the first sparks of modern industry were lighting up across Europe. Tucked away in the Ore Mountains of Saxony, Germany, the town of Glashütte wasn’t known for much – yet. But that year, a small group of watchmakers set out to establish something meaningful, laying the foundations for what would become the heart of German watchmaking.
Fast forward to today, and the region is steeped in a rich watchmaking history, continuing to flourish with brands like Glashütte Original forging ahead and keeping traditions alive. The brand’s latest release embodies this spirit, not only by faithfully utilising a complication that is significant to the region’s history, but by investing in the town’s watchmaking future.
The PanoLunarTourbillon has been with us since 2013, featuring the familiar asymmetric aesthetic in an elegant red gold case, paired with a silver dial. There was a brief interlude in 2020 when an engraved-dial platinum version arrived, but limited to just 25 pieces, it barely left a mark on the PanoLunarTourbillon’s timeline. Glashütte Original has revived the platinum case for 2025, once again in a limited edition, and has made some striking changes to the watch’s colour palette, blending tradition and modernity.
As you would expect, the proportions of the platinum case are extremely well-considered. At 40mm in diameter and a 47mm lug-to-lug, it remains the same as the 2020 version, but at 12.7mm thick, it’s reduced in thickness by 0.4mm: perhaps hard to notice in reality, but a reduction nonetheless. The case is beautifully balanced, with thin flanks and long, softly bevelled lugs, and finished with a thin, two-stepped polished bezel that closes in a domed sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating on both sides.
It may surprise you to know that Glashütte Original is the only brand in the town with its own locally-based, in-house facilities for dial making. The opening of their new manufacture in Glashütte marked a major milestone in their business strategy, bringing processes like galvanic treatment, sunray brushing, and guilloché fully in-house for the first time. The new PanoLunarTourbillon is the first watch to receive a dial created in the new facility, and as such, they had to make sure it was a showstopper.
Firstly, the finely grained, rose-coloured “Eisenerz” (iron ore) hue of the dial carries deep symbolism for Glashütte. It reflects the reddish tint of the local soil, caused by oxidised iron deposits found in high concentrations, particularly near the Müglitz River, which flows close to the manufacture. Often, when brands claim inspiration from poetic sources, the result can feel contrived; however, here, Glashütte’s reference feels entirely sincere, rooted in local manufacturing history, watchmaking, and the use of materials.
Paired with the dial’s galvanic rose “iron ore” finish, the off-centre appliqued details are finished in a deep heat-blued steel, along with the Super-LumiNova-filled hands. This complements the blue dial text, along with the blue moonphase window and the blue Panorama Date window, which matches the one found in the previous 2020 PanoLunarTourbillon. The blue against the rose-tinged gold of the dial is a stunning combination, especially with the changes in surface texture catching the light.
The lower portion of the dial is where the watch’s movement shines through, with the flying tourbillon proudly protruding into view. The calibre 93-03 inside was chosen to again represent more of the town’s history in watchmaking, given that the flying tourbillon itself was invented by the Glashütte-based master watchmaker Alfred Helwig in 1920. The in-house calibre is of course, finely finished with blued screws, Glashütte stripes and bevelled edges, and the off-centre theme of the watch continues with the rhodium-plated 21-carat gold rotor sitting off to the side at the rear.
The flying tourbillon’s position allows it to act as a seconds hand on the dial, too, completing one full rotation every 60 seconds. The escapement features a silicon balance spring and beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour, striking a balance between energy use and accuracy. Thanks to a reasonably large barrel, the power reserve is increased to 60 hours, a notable improvement over the previous model’s run time.
Completing the watch are two strap options, the first being a traditional-looking Louisiana alligator strap in dark blue, and the other is a blue synthetic fabric strap, which is an interesting departure from the norm for the brand. Seeing a strap like that on a watch like this is unusual, but I like it. Both straps are completed with a platinum folding clasp to help balance things out: in every sense of the word, this is a heavy hitter.
Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon price and availability
The Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon is available from GO retailers worldwide from June 2025, and is limited to 50 pieces. Price: AUS$186,850
| Brand | Glashütte Original |
| Model | PanoLunarTourbillon |
| Reference | 1-93-03-01-03-61 – Alligator strap 1-93-03-01-03-64 – Synthetic fabric strap |
| Case Dimensions | 40mm (D) x 12.7mm (T) x 47mm (lug-to-lug) |
| Case Material | Platinum |
| Water Resistance | 50 meters |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Galvanic rose coloured Eisenerz (iron ore) |
| Strap | Blue alligator leather or synthetic fabric with platinum folding clasp |
| Movement | Calibre 93-03, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 60 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date, moonphase, power reserve, flying tourbillon |
| Availability | Limited to 50 pieces |
| Price | AUS$186,850 |