TAG Heuer revives the spirit of the Seafarer with a new Carrera Chronograph LE
Tom Austin- The Carrera Chronograph returns for another limited edition, this time paying respects to Heuer’s heritage association with Abercrombie & Fitch.
- TAG Heuer’s new vintage-inspired chronograph evokes the spirit of the Abercrombie & Fitch Seafarer line, which ran between the 1950s and 1970s.
- Limited to 500 pieces, the watch features subtle details such as the blue subdial quarters, though without the tide indicator of the OG.
If any brand can get us excited when it reaches into its archives, it’s TAG Heuer. Its rich heritage spans decades, and since the introduction of the Carrera Glassbox Chronograph, we’ve been treated to a plethora of exciting, vintage-inspired pieces. The watches’ retro-chic aesthetic lends itself exceptionally well as a canvas for the brand to explore its history, faithfully bringing vintage concepts to life with modern flair and capturing the spirit of a bygone era.
TAG Heuer’s latest release commemorates a range of watches produced between the 1950s and 1970s, known as the Seafarer, designed for Abercrombie & Fitch, the American high-end outdoor goods retailer. Printed only with Abercrombie & Fitch Co “Seafarer” branding (or Mareographe for the Heuer equivalent), these ocean-going chronographs have since gone on to become highly collectible in the vintage scene, and feature tide indicators using vivid colours to stand them apart from the rest.
For this watch, the brand has opted to run with the 42mm variation of the Carrera Chronograph case, which is interesting, seeing that the majority of the original A&F pieces were around 39mm at their largest. We have seen other vintage-inspired chronographs from TAG before, such as the 2023 Skipper or the first collaborative nod to the Seafarer, alongside Hodinkee. These models were 39mm and 42mm, respectively, so there must be a method behind the reasoning for this size choice. Nevertheless, it’s still a wearable everyday piece by modern standards. Finished in stainless steel, the case is water-resistant to 100 metres, making it more than adequate for sailing activities.
Rather than the glassbox crystal, this model features a thin bezel around the sapphire crystal, which is precisely how the original Seafarers once were. This is something seen on only a handful of recent Carrera Chronographs, such as the Year of the Dragon and the Team Ikuzawa limited editions.
The dial on this new model is finished in a deep opaline blue with a white flange, featuring triangular hour markers which are faithful to vintage Seafarer references, such as the 2444. The silver sub-dials are decorated with azurage and contrast the blue with yellow hands, featuring a minute chronograph subdial that incorporates elements such as turquoise blue quarters, a nod to regatta countdowns. Finally, at six o’clock, a subtle, rhodium-plated seconds hand rotates over a small, unobtrusive date window. It’s interesting that TAG Heuer decided to avoid a tide indicator on this model, especially considering it was a feature on all of the original Seafarers. Still, this colourway nod is very much appreciated.
As is the case with most of the current Carrera line-up, the Seafarer tribute features the latest generation of the trusty Heuer 02 calibre, now called the TH20-00. This in-house movement has been featured in numerous TAG Heuer models since its introduction almost a decade ago, and with an upgrade in 2023, it was refreshed with bi-directional winding and a substantial 80-hour power reserve. Visible through the edition number-engraved sapphire caseback, the movement is decorated, albeit somewhat industrially. However, for a mass-produced chronograph, it’s suitably very TAG Heuer.
Unlike other ocean-going TAG Heuer chronographs, this model features a perforated calfskin leather strap, finished in dark blue with light blue stitching, and is connected to TAG Heuer’s excellent steel folding clasp. This suggests that the watch may not be intended as a hardcore sailing tool, but rather as a watch to be worn at the sailing club bar afterwards.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Limited Edition price and availability
The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Limited Edition will be available from July 10th, limited to 500 pieces. Price: €7,350
| Brand | TAG Heuer |
| Model | Carrera Chronograph Limited Edition |
| Reference | CBN201N.FC6620 |
| Case Dimensions | 42mm (D) x 14.3mm (T) x 48.6mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Opaline blue with white flange |
| Lug Width | 22mm |
| Strap | Dark blue calfskin, steel folding clasp |
| Movement | TH20-00, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 80 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, chronograph |
| Availability | Limited to 500 pieces |
| Price | €7,350 |