The Grand Seiko SBGW323 ‘Kiri’ blossoms with a elegant purple dial
Russell SheldrakeIt’s no secret that Grand Seiko draws inspiration from its surrounding Japanese natural habitat for its magnificent dials – whether it’s the country’s famous cherry blossoms or the unique qualities of a snowflake – and while this year the Grand Seiko headlines deservedly went to the new U.F.A models and the final introduction of a micro-adjustment clasp, this wonderful mid-sized piece quietly stole a lot of hearts. The Grand Seiko SBGW323 ‘Kiri’ is a brilliant example of how a modest case size can be made entirely unisex and still offer a great-looking entry point into the high-end brand.
Getting to grips with this watch showed me how well balanced it is, not only in its sizing but also in the overall design and colour. It’s not often you get a truly unisex piece that brings elements of colour to the table, yet Grand Seiko here has managed to do just that by finding the right balance between boldness and elegance. This watch falls firmly into the “robust elegance” category for me: a Goldilocks zone we’ve termed where a watch can be tough enough to meet everyday demands, whether it be to do with water resistance or movement reliability, and look sleek enough to wear on all occasions. Having a smaller case size certainly helps in this regard, as smaller watches automatically look dressier, but by adding in fine dial texture and high polish on the case, the Kiri ticks a lot of boxes – and all for an incredibly attractive price point. So, let’s take a look at this new watch in more detail.
The dial
It is only right that we start this off with the dial. The purple tone that Grand Seiko has chosen for the Kiri fits the brief perfectly as it evokes the many shades of blossom that come from the Paulownia tree. This tree is held in extremely high regard in Japan, as it is otherwise known as the Princess or Empress tree. Its blossoms are these purple trumpet-shaped flowers that can be anywhere from a pale, almost white colour, to a deep, rich purple. So, opting for the Mt. Iwate dial texture here works perfectly as it allows the colour on the dial to shift around as you move the watch.
Why else is this specific tree and its flower meaningful? Well, the Kiri flower just happens to be the official flower of the Iwate Prefecture, which is where the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi is based. And the Paulownia tree can be seen on the side of Mt. Iwate, so having the Mt. Iwate dial texture used here is a very nice touch. As mentioned above, the colours on this dial can shift and change as you move it around in the light. Given the mastery of Grand Seiko’s dial makers, this is no surprise.
Punctuating this dial, we have Grand Seiko’s classic, faceted, applied baton markers that double up at 12. The crisp polishing that has been applied to them matches that of the sharp sword hands set, which glide over the applied GS initials and stamped word mark. Overall, the dial is kept incredibly clean, with all furniture and text being kept to a minimum. This allows the dial colour and texture to stand out and get all the attention it deserves. I’ve never been a huge admirer of the fan-shaped power reserves that Grand Seiko puts on its dials, and thankfully, here we have none of that, not even a date window: just a clean, crisp, elegant dial that can work for anyone and everyone.
The case
Here we have a 44GS case, meaning it measures 36.5mm across and carries the characteristic wide, highly polished lugs. This might be one of my favourite case shapes that Grand Seiko produces: its proportions are perfect for me, and it shows off one of the best qualities that the Japanese brand possesses, its Zaratsu polishing that covers the top of the lugs. This mirror-perfect, distortion-free polish helps to set GS apart from the other contenders in this price point, and while it offers those who deeply love the brand a great talking point, for everyone else, it creates an incredibly eye-catching effect.
The 36.5mm 44GS variant we know and love today was launched in 2022, but it was based on a formative design from the brand that dates back to 1967. As mentioned above, it measures 36.5mm across and just 11.6mm thick, dimensions that allow it to slip into a more dress category than its case shape and bracelet pairing might suggest. Could it have been slightly thinner? Maybe, but with it still achieving 100m of water resistance, that is less of a worry for me. It carries a solid caseback, emblazoned with the Grand Seiko lion, so there is no chance to ogle the movement here.
The movement
Keeping this watch running is the manual-winding calibre 9S64. This might not be the famous Spring Drive that Grand Seiko is known for, but we still think it’s good enough to take on a Rolex Oyster Perpetual. Given its robust nature and power reserve of 72 hours, it is not to be sniffed at. This movement is another reason why I think this is an excellent entry point into Grand Seiko. One of the big benefits of owning a manual-winding watch is that you create a connection with that timepiece very quickly. Handling it, winding it, setting it, as you do these repetitive actions over time, you begin to notice all the little details that the designers have built in, and you generate a bond with the watch.
Beyond this, the movement is regulated to stay within +10/-1 seconds per day while on your wrist (+5/-3 static). This means that the movement was adjusted to a higher degree of accuracy outside of the case, but to allow for fluctuations due to everyday wear, temperature changes, and sudden movements, Grand Seiko puts a slightly higher band in place for the on-wrist guarantee.
The bracelet
Holding this watch together is the familiar standard Grand Seiko bracelet. This is another element of this watch that makes it feel as though it straddles the tool and dress categories. The clasp is a fairly simple affair with a push-button release. This might be something that people turn their noses up at, especially now that Grand Seiko is making micro-adjustment clasps (although only for the UFA at this stage), but when you are looking at an entry-level watch like this, it fits the price point perfectly for me.
The verdict
A lot is going on in this seemingly simple watch. There is the subtle play of size and colour, making it a possibility for all genders, then there is the use of a mechanical movement over Spring Drive keeping it affordable, and the high level of attention to detail with skills such as the Zaratsu polishing on full display, making the SBGW323 Kiri a complete package in my eyes. Are there small details that could do with slight improvements? Maybe. But in all honesty, if I were looking for a first Grand Seiko, this, and other dial variations of the 44GS range, is exactly where I would land.
Grand Seiko SBGW323 Kiri pricing and availability
The Grand Seiko SBGW323 is available now from all Grand Seiko points of sale. Price: US$5,900, A$8,400
| Brand | Grand Seiko |
| Model | Heritage Collection 44GS ‘Kiri’ |
| Reference | SBGW323 |
| Case Dimensions | 36.5mm (D) x 11.6mm (T) x 42.7mm (LTL) |
| Case material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Box sapphire |
| Dial | Kiri purple |
| Bracelet | Case-matching bracelet, folding clasp |
| Movement | 9S64, in-house, manual-winding |
| Power Reserve | 72 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | US$5,900 A$8,400 |